Interarms Mark V action Build questions

Stob

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For a hunting and or varmint rifle, both the action and cartridge will do fine. Not sure if I would go too crazy on truing a Mauser. It is what it is. If you want to take a step towards targe shooting, there are better combos, such as a Remington and perhaps a 6BR. With a good barrel and chambered right, the Mauser just might surprise you on how well it will shoot anyway.
 
I agree with Stob. I used one to build a rifle about 20 years ago. It's a good action, but it is case hardened, so you need to be careful about how much material you remove. Also, it has the old 55 degree thread, so if you recut the thread, make sure you know what you're doing.
 
Yes it would if you want to shoot for accuracy. There is a whole industry built around aftermarket parts for the 700. With a minimum amount of work and some different parts, you can have a very good shooting rifle. Some may say to have it completely worked over, but personally I can't justify all that work on a Remington. You can spend 500 bucks to a smith to do all the bells and whistles, and not gain much in the way of accuracy. There is a reason the Remington is so popular, it works! With just a simple truing of the action face, chasing the threads, add a surface ground recoil lug, and a properly chambered barrel, you'll have quite a good rifle. Aftermarket triggers are easily installed should you want something better than what you can adjust the factory trigger. Your options are endless, but for just a little work, it will kick butt!
 
Turbo, The Mauser will make a good hunting rifle but will not keep up with a Rem. 700 or a Savage for accuracy and it really shows at distance. The Mauser should be good to get a pretty easy 1-1.5 moa. The Rem. or Savage is easy for 0.75 moa. With some work, 0.50 moa, and with more work you can get bugholes in benchrest. Of course it's not all the action, the barrel, stock, bedding, scope, and load all have to work together. ( then there's the shooter ) :)
There are some dang good Rem. clones out there that don't require all the extra work but then you pay for that. But then again you pay to have the Rem. worked over.
Use the Mauser to build a classic hunting rifle and get a better action if you want to look at 1000 yd.
Bobby
 
How new of a 700 Rem action do you have to get to avoid the the "firing when the saftey is pushed off" problem? My hunting partner had one from the Rem Custom Shop that did it. Contacted Rem. They sent him to an authorized service shop for a free trigger mechanisim cleaning. they claimed it was excess oil. The next summer when we were at the range it did it again. It was never oiled after leaving the repair shop. Contacted Rem. Sent him back to a different authorized service gunshop. They did the same thing. My friend never took it home, traded it in on a Kimber at this shop.
 
I have used a lot of Remingtons and have never had one go off taking the safety off, but that's not saying it can't happen. If a factory trigger does this it should be replaced in it's entirety, not worked on by a local rep. If it were mine, I would replace it with an aftermarket trigger anyway, just because I like them better than a factory trigger.
How new of a 700 Rem action do you have to get to avoid the the "firing when the saftey is pushed off" problem? My hunting partner had one from the Rem Custom Shop that did it. Contacted Rem. They sent him to an authorized service shop for a free trigger mechanisim cleaning. they claimed it was excess oil. The next summer when we were at the range it did it again. It was never oiled after leaving the repair shop. Contacted Rem. Sent him back to a different authorized service gunshop. They did the same thing. My friend never took it home, traded it in on a Kimber at this shop.

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Hi, I am rebuilding a Mark X curentlly. Once I got inside it I discovered that mine is quite rough. I have improved it quite a bit but it still falls short of a well preped 700/mod 70 classic/ T3 etc, I have taken it as far as I dare. Some of the earlier Marks were better. If you are conserned w/ long range accuracy I would go w/ what Stob said. And add I have had some very accurate Mausers, but it's all in the attention to detail from the ground up. Lapping the lugs, very careful chamber & mount bbl, proper bedding, A great trigger, and the often overlooked extream care & fitting of the scope base & rings. 400yards seperates the great scopes from the also rans. & of course carefully taylored loads for that specific chamber. That being said I do like mausers & rarely use target chambers on hunting arms as I can not get on well enough from field positions for it to matter, plus I mostly hunt under 200yrds (too dense to find them any further) so getting 2.5" groups from the bench @ 200yrds is more than enough for me. I would recomend Jim Carmikle book of th rifle, The Mauser etc.. Also you can add a Win mod 70 style 3 pos saftey & an after market trigger to a 700 ( a friend did & was real happy). Total rank amatear, Jim.
 
This is a 375 that I bought used 30yr ago. After several stock beddings & scope & mount changes I finally got it to do approx 1.0" @ 100yrds w/ a 8x & once fired brass w/ 300gr RN + 95% load of 4895. Recent loads w/ 3031 & 5x scope and my older eyes are running about 1.75". Mods: several stock repairs, I am setting up to add a second cross bolt, bedded front action & bbl mounted 3rd lug, Change to a 3-pos Win mod 70 safety (I am not fond of trigger safeties), change to a larger Brownells bolt handle Note that these two were done by a friend who is more competant than me (I do not TIG weld - Yet). Currently I am honing the action & trueing the basic surfaces (but not the bolt lugs yet, I will if I need to but that may require a new bbl). I am also fitting new bottom metal (by Duane Weble - fantastic product!). the orig box/bottom metal was a modified std lenght box with very thin fron extension and the shoulder relief cuts were too far forward, or they started w/ a 458 box - would not cycle the 3rd rnd. the new box is much beefier & better geometry and holds 4rnds. Some stock improvements are in the works, pad, grip cap, crack repair. I want to restock, but I can not afford the money or time right now. I will try to get some pics up. I have had mausers in the past that would do 0.75" @ 100yrds - 308, heavy sporter cust bbl, 1909action (foolishly sold to a friend, I offered him 3x profit but he turned it down). 35whelen on modified enfield (sorta mauser) Lilja BBL does sub inch, barreled by the same friend that did the Mark X bolt handle. Jim
 
How new of a 700 Rem action do you have to get to avoid the the "firing when the saftey is pushed off" problem? My hunting partner had one from the Rem Custom Shop that did it. Contacted Rem. They sent him to an authorized service shop for a free trigger mechanisim cleaning. they claimed it was excess oil. The next summer when we were at the range it did it again. It was never oiled after leaving the repair shop. Contacted Rem. Sent him back to a different authorized service gunshop. They did the same thing. My friend never took it home, traded it in on a Kimber at this shop.

For everyone's information here, you may want to take a look at Remington's recall on X-Mark Pro® (“XMP®”) triggers:

http://www.remington.com/pages/news...all-notice-Remington-model700-modelseven.aspx

Says it covers Model 700's made between May 1, 2006 to April 9, 2014.

I have a factory unmodified 700BDL Varmint Barrel in .308 Win that was made in 1976 that has the "unintentional discharge" issue, so I guess no new trigger for me. But, don't let anyone tell you it can't happen. I witnessed it first hand when I engaged the safety lever, and it scared the you-know-whattie out of me. Luckily it was on a bench pointing down range.
 
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