Improving a plate shear

[astjp2]

This will explain it better than I can: https://www.gasparini.com/en/blog/get-rid-shearing-defects-in-four-steps/

If your gap is too small, it will chip hardened blades.
Here is a pic of a real beverly shear, the one you have uses the same concept and works like a pair of scissors.

 

[hman]

Thanks for the link. Good info. So far, I've only cut very thin steel ... so I haven't run into the need to adjust blade clearance. before replying, I took the time to educate myself about beverly shears. Neat tools for curved cuts!

 

[astjp2]

Yeah, the both work on similar concept to a pair of scissors. When you need to cut sheetmetal, these tools are great as long as you dont try to cut plate.

 

[Ken from ontario]

I had been looking at these 12" hand shears for a couple of years and always thought it might be too flimsy to do anything substantial with it but today saw our Princess Auto (Canada's HF) had them on sale for next to nothing so I ordered one ,then looked around on you tube and it looks like most users consider them as a " very useful" tool.

 

[darkzero]

I had been looking at these 12" hand shears for a couple of years and always thought it might be too flimsy to do anything substantial with it but today saw our Princess Auto (Canada's HF) had them on sale for next to nothing so I ordered one ,then looked around on you tube and it looks like most users consider them as a " very useful" tool.

They are very useful, for me anyway. I don't have to room to have one mounted in a permanent location so I purchased a smaller 8" & mounted it on an alumn plate, that way I can just set it on the table & clamp down on the plate, then store it away when not needed.

I really would have liked a genuine Beverly throatless shear but around here they aren't easy to find & sell for big money. This style shear still works great & the import ones are surprisingly good as long as you stay within their rated capacity.

 

[Ken from ontario]

I don't have much room in my shop either but I do have a heavy work table, I am thinking of attaching a piece of angle iron to one of the legs just a few inches above the floor, then extend the back bracket on the shear so it can go under the angle iron , this way I can anchor the shear to the table so it doesn't lift up when I cut , I'll see if it's workable or manageable, if not I'll have to do what you've done, I like the idea of cutting on the bench rather than on the floor.
BTW, thanks for the pic, I don't know if I've said that before but you have a clean shop.

hman, I enjoyed reading about the modifications you made on the shear, I will definitely add that extension plate/support the first chance I get.

 

[stioc]

Great mods and info.

What's the thickest steel and aluminum sheet/plate you folks have successfully cut with the shears and bent with the bender? Can they handle 16ga steel and 1/8 alum?

Just wondering about the application for myself as I have several ways to cut metal including a plasma cutter and a diy bender I made with some angle iron for my 12ton press.

 

[pontiac428]

You've got my attention! And of course, a few questions. I have plenty of time behind a throatless shear, but not this type. Can you handle the work in the left hand while working the lever with your right, as with a throatless, or do you need to use that hold-down contraption (nice job by the way) to get straight results? Next, can you make straight cuts over longer distances than the blade, say 18", and keep the cut looking good over multiple bites? And last, what's the capacity of the cutter? I'd hope for at least 16 ga. if not better for smaller pieces. I'm off to browse Amazon...

 

[Winegrower]

I bought one of these like darkzero shows, and never use it. If you want a longer cut than the blade length, it wrinkles one half badly. Perhaps the real Beverly shear would be much better.

 

[hman]

You've got my attention! And of course, a few questions. I have plenty of time behind a throatless shear, but not this type. Can you handle the work in the left hand while working the lever with your right, as with a throatless, or do you need to use that hold-down contraption (nice job by the way) to get straight results? Next, can you make straight cuts over longer distances than the blade, say 18", and keep the cut looking good over multiple bites? And last, what's the capacity of the cutter? I'd hope for at least 16 ga. if not better for smaller pieces. I'm off to browse Amazon...

OOPS! My apologies for not having seen/replied to this post when it first came out.

I've cut lengthy material several times, but it's tricky. The "offcut" needs to be small enough that it can be bent down and go under the rear frame on which the shearing frame pivots. In addition, if you're not careful, the "waste end" can push the workpiece away from the intended cut line. So you may have to force it back into alignment. If both these conditions are met, the cut will proceed relatively cleanly. One trick that will help accomplish this is to first make a "rough" cut about 1/4" to 1/2" outboard of the intended cut line, so that during the "money" cut, the offcut material is narrow, and thus easy to bend out of the way.

PS to @Winegrower - You're absolutely right! Matter of fact, the offcut always gets quite a bend in it, even when cutting short pieces. It's always best to plan for this stuff to be "waste."