Identify This Chuck

Xnerd

Xnerd

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I have this ancient three jaw scroll Chuck with no real markings on it. I tried to use it and the run out was absolutely terrible it was actually visible. It measured on the order of 7 thousands.

It came with it lathe parts that I purchased and I didn't really inspect it before I threaded it on my Logan 820. It's the only three jaw Chuck that I have it's a bummer that I can't use it. When I inspected the threads I couldn't believe my eyes they are completely trashed rotted out. It seems that there was also a couple of voids in the casting of the back plate that rusted through in the thread area. It's honestly that bad.

The truck itself does not have a lot of wear on it. The Jaws not shown here it have no where that is visible. The flat is nice and square etcetera. No cupping nothing. When cleaned up the jobs slide nice and smooth and still tight. So I think this thing might have sat on a Shelf for a long time because of the manufacturing defect in the back plate nobody got around to fixing.

For ****s and giggles I would like to see if anyone can identify it as there are no markings on it other than it says made in Germany I think. It has a serial number. And an inspection number of 315. At least I think that that is an inspection number there's a German word that I have not translated yet that looks like its controller perhaps? At any rate here are all the pictures it'd be interesting to see if anyone knows what it is I have not found any images on Google that look like this.

This measures 7.5 inches, does that men it's a 7 or 8 inch chuck?
I honestly need a 3 jaw scroll Chuck for quick work. Indicating every single thing that I turn is really bumming me out. There are times where high accuracy is not that critical it would be nice not to have to indicate everything.

I could just buy a new 3 jaw Chuck but it be a lot cheaper to fix this one with the new back plate I reckon. I don't know if I trust my skill yet to make the back plate myself. I mean I could make it without threading but threading on a lathe is something that I have not mastered yet completely I have all the tools just not the experience.
20160919_093033.jpg 20160919_093107.jpg 20160919_093033.jpg 20160919_093107.jpg 20160919_093113.jpg 20160919_093130.jpg 20160919_093301.jpg 20160919_093331.jpg
 
Third row down left side picture. Look below the 65822 number, it looks like a faint impression of a name. Can you make it out? I enlarged it 200% and it is a name but I cannot make it out.

"Billy G"
 
Is the back plate actually part of the chuck, or just an adapter? If the latter is the case, you should buy a new one and machine to fit the chuck.
 
Bill Gruby said:
Third row down left side picture. Look below the 65822 number, it looks like a faint impression of a name. Can you make it out? I enlarged it 200% and it is a name but I cannot make it out.

"Billy G"
Click to expand...
I can't even hardly make it out with my eyes but I'm pretty sure it says the word controller in German as an inspector and then it says 317

Yeah I would like to find a new back plate but I can't find any that are 7.5 the closest I can find r 8.11 I'm trying to determine if the inner flange is already present in the 8.11 size ones. I have an email in there asking.

Do you think transfer screws would be a good way to locate the holes perfectly?
 
Normally you buy a blank back plate and machine it to fit the chuck. 8.11 would be fine, you just need to make a pile of chips.;) Normally there will be a register flange on the chuck so you have to machine the the backplate to match.

Transfer screws should work or any other method you can use to locate the holes. The bolt holes are not critical, the register surfaces are what locate the chuck to the backplate.

You can probably use the old backplate and use a transfer punch also.
 
JimDawson said:
Normally you buy a blank back plate and machine it to fit the chuck. 8.11 would be fine, you just need to make a pile of chips.;) Normally there will be a register flange on the chuck so you have to machine the the backplate to match.

Transfer screws should work or any other method you can use to locate the holes. The bolt holes are not critical, the register surfaces are what locate the chuck to the backplate.

You can probably use the old backplate and use a transfer punch also.
Click to expand...
I just like using the screws because you can set them so they're barely above the surface level you can match besides perfectly and even drop the registration flange part way down into its lot before you smack it with a rubber mallet. I don't feel like transfer punches are as accurate although I do use them I figure it would probably be to my advantage to turn the flange so if it's down inside prior to making the holes I reckon I'm very new at this as you can see. I've become disabled and they thought I was dying I have a really rare form of paraneoplastic syndrome and the anybodies have chewed up my nerve endings and left me an astronomical amount of pain. But once in awhile a couple times a week I can go outside and take her with my lathe or my Mill it keeps my life going keeps my mind cranking so to speak.

So at any rate yeah I guess I'll try and find out cheap blank one that already has the inch-and-a-half 8 TPI finished and start making chips

Thank you for your help everyone
 
Oh and yes it is definitely a back plate it's not part of the original chuck it has no markings whatsoever on it and every single other assembly within this Chuck has 315 stamped on it so I'm sure that it's just a random back plate
 
Last edited:
JimDawson said:
Normally you buy a blank back plate and machine it to fit the chuck. 8.11 would be fine, you just need to make a pile of chips.;) Normally there will be a register flange on the chuck so you have to machine the the backplate to match.

Transfer screws should work or any other method you can use to locate the holes. The bolt holes are not critical, the register surfaces are what locate the chuck to the backplate.

You can probably use the old backplate and use a transfer punch also.
Click to expand...





I just looked at the old back plate and it's only like three eighths of an inch thick around the edges these ones that I'll be replacing with it look really beef in comparison I don't know what they are I'll have to look at the drawing but are they all like this? Or am I looking at the wrong product?
 
Normally they are about an inch thick at the edge.
 
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