Sorry I'm a bit slow responding.
That's a second-generation "round-dial" 10EE. The "round-dial" refers to the large round plate or dial on the quick-change gearbox. In the mid 40s the 10EE was redesigned and the "square-dial" gearbox was introduced; a version of the "square-dial" 10EE is still built today. That machine was probably built no later than 1941. The last (third generation) round-dials were built in the beginning of 1945.
$3500 is pretty high, IMHO, for a round-dial of that vintage. It would need to be in exceptional condition and fully tooled to be a good value at that price. I've seen newer round-dials in excellent condition sell in CA for $2500.
You need to find out if it still has the original motor/generator (MG) drive. I see an extra start button below the start/stop station, so there's been some sort of wiring change. You need to take off all of the covers and take pictures of what's inside. You should find the MG under the chip pan, filling the whole space.
I'm a bit concerned about this machine, since the headstock and the base do not appear to be the same vintage. The base is a third-generation piggy-back exciter MG base; the headstock is second-generation and would have been on a machine with an in-line exciter MG. It's telling that the build plate, normally mounted on the base, below the tailstock and to the right of the front cover, is missing.
The best way to get an idea about the condition of a 10EE is to turn a test bar, about 1" in diameter and 4" long. If the spindle is in good condition you should be able to get a very nice surface finish. If the bar has only a few tenths taper over the length, the bed is probably in good shape. All 10EEs have hardened bed ways and most of the wear usually happens to the saddle. It's difficult to tell much about the condition of the carriage and bed by looking at the ways; the ways can look beautiful and the saddle can have a lot of wear. A machine in good condition will have at least 0.005" clearance between the saddle and the tailstock flat-way. Check with a feeler gage as shown in this photo:
Get the serial number. It will be stamped on the right end of the bed, in the front, between the tailstock flat-way and the carriage V-way. There should be a plate on the cover of the DC control panel (the big box full of relays, under the headstock/gearbox and next to the spindle motor) that has the serial number of the machine on it; the two should match. Get a photo of the inside of the DC control panel.
If the chuck on the machine is original to the machine it will have the machine’s serial number stamped on the back. A machine with all original tooling is a rare find but speaks to the life the machine has led.
I can't tell from the photos if it has a taper attachment. That adds to the value of the machine.
Let me know what you find when you visit the machine.
Cal