I need RPM settings please

As Chuck aluded to the formula is not really difficult, but a lot to learn on the beginning. If you do the calculations correctly you will get a good surface finish and a quality piece of work. How far is the 6MM rod extending from the face of your chuck? If it is sticking out pretty far you might want to use your follow rest to prevent wobbling and vibration in the material too.

Bob
 
Hi and thanks. I'm actually not turning it down or anything. The work I do on the rods are just mainly facing (to clean the ends as I handcut them using a hacksaw).
Then I thread them using a threading die in a die tail stock holder.

The parting tool, I was thinking of using it to create a shallow channel or groove on one end of the rod.. kinda like this:
grooveonrod_zps59e70e29.jpg

grooveonrod_zps59e70e29.jpg
 
Can you get the stock through the head stock? If so why not skip the bandsaw and just part each one. Save you on facing and sawing
 
That was the plan originally but I don't know how to use the parting tool. I'm a bit scared as I might break the HSS tool...
Do you recon I should run at around 100rpm for parting then? I could give it a go tonight and see.
also do I need lube?
 
I'm no expert on parting but I ran mine as slow as It went. Thats about 100. And just hardly feed it. Let the machine talk to you. You can feel when it struggles or is not happy. Feel and hear it. Mine rolled off like butter though it struggled in a few spots. It was not scary though. Just be easy man.
 
muscleflex said:
That was the plan originally but I don't know how to use the parting tool. I'm a bit scared as I might break the HSS tool...
Do you recon I should run at around 100rpm for parting then? I could give it a go tonight and see.
also do I need lube?
Click to expand...

Coolant or cutting oil is usually required when parting. I was parting 1" Dia. 304 SS to center this morning, .090 wide carbide insert (right handed), 530 RPM, .001 IPR, flood coolant. I didn't want to turn it faster because I had to catch a 4" long part that came off by hand (-:
 
dont try and learn parting on a real part.
take a piece of scrap rod and try on that.
as close to the chuck as possible, if possible with tailstock support, exactly 90 degree, exact centre hight, to low will first cut then break the cutter,way to high wont cut but wont break cutter a little to high will cut but will give problems at the end of the cut , feed agressively!, lock carriage, tighten gibs, tool not reaching out further than necessary, cutting oil

i can grind a parting tool with my eyes shut( nearly) nowadays, you guess how come...

but i finally did a lot of parting this week with no problems what so ever.
 
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