I need an idea

Think you'll need a hub to mount the aluminum disk. Face the back side of the disk and a suitable sized piece of material for the hub. Bolt them together with counter sunk heads in the disk, locktite the screws. Then face the front, form a register for the hole in the disk and bore the hub in one operation to reduce runout.
I had sufficient 4 inch stock to make the hub and plate in one piece but did the last operations in one setup and can't feel any runout when using it
I wouldn't bother with the keyway, set screws at 90 degrees will turn it, the diamond disks don't take a lot of power.
You will need dowel pins to drive the disk as Stephan did in his video. Do as he did and drill the disks when your set up to drill the holes in the plate.
I ordered more disks for mine now have to make a setup to drill them.
I used 3/8th rare earth magnets I had for cabinet door latches. Drilled the disk with an end mill and epoxied them in. Works great, clamp them down while the epoxy cures, mine came up out of the hole and had to be ground down flush.
A shaft on bearings would be best but this isn't going to see industrial use, the gear box should carry the load fine. If not redesign at that point.
I used a shaft and belt drive, only because I couldn't find a proper speed gear motor. Ran mine at 500 rpm, only had slower motors around.

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Greg
 
What were the specs on the motor and controller? And for the finance dept. - how much were they?
 
If that's for winegrower, the motors integrated with the gear train were eBay specials, no real specs except 12VDC motor, variable speed with voltage. At 12 volts they were about 100RPM as I recall. Maybe $15 each, I bought 3. "Controller" so to speak was an HP lab DC supply.
 
Made some progress today.
I had to stop when I spent half an hour looking for a suitable tool and tool path to cut the 4mm key way.
I have a full Imperial broach set but I have virtually no metric tooling.
I need to ponder this one.
A few shots of my progress. I plan on milling a flat, drilling and tapping for a set screw. The fit is good, I pulled it off.
I also plan on cutting a register to center the diamond plate, magnets and drilling and tapping the motor shaft.
Right now the aluminum backing plate runs smooth as glass.
I’m thinking of using super glue to a sacrificial stock to turn the od.
2155F298-DA2A-49C6-BBB2-EB1C61CB2742.jpegC76338E5-1F5E-4067-A843-EC6C48CB4446.jpegC0AAEBC1-9233-44CF-9AF1-83D5F2630C71.jpegC5C6F592-53EF-4B50-8294-C887A8E6ED5A.jpegD1408F9C-F515-401A-997A-67B018653DAB.jpeg2A33D6B0-8B8F-421C-8BF9-C6DC6DAF632B.jpegD76C865F-226F-412B-A021-B8CDF5161797.jpeg65A6ABEC-4D6B-424D-96FF-FB1DD6AAFD4F.jpeg69FAB151-92DB-469B-AA88-6DABE91597D5.jpeg
 
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Mikey mentioned earnings vs. bushings, hmm, I’m not sure which this has.
Cooter brown, I like your idea, my hub is kind of like your design.
F350ca, the magnets and the center nub the disc centers on is a great idea. You used pins, I was thinking set screws but pins would work with the beveled screw holding the wheel into the shaft.
Im trying to avoid grit and water entry through the disc, if I use the method just mentioned I can’t see anything getting back there?
I was going to use a sewing machine motor and pulley but then I found this 125 rpm geared motor and controller for less than $35.
Heck, the sewing machine motor and HF controller was less than $50.
Im going to over think this some more. It will work, whatever I come up with.
Im having fun and learning as I go along
 
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