I Killed It !!! ~~~~ My Bandsaw

benmychree said:
You guys; DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT use EP gear oil with bronze worm gears; it is corrosive to the bronze and when used, it corrodes the bronze, then the worm wears it off, a continuous process leading to early failure.
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From http://www.lsc-online.com/industrial-ep-gear-oil/
INDUSTRIAL EP GEAR OIL
PREMIUM INDUSTRIAL EP GEAR OIL (NON-LEADED)
Product Description: INDUSTRIAL EP GEAR OIL is formulated from high quality high VI base oils combined with selected additives to provide resistance to foaming, rusting, corrosion and oxidation. A sulfur-phosphorus additive is used to give this oil its extreme pressure characteristics which permit industrial gears to withstand heavy loads and shock loading. Unique additive package employed in industrial EP Gear Oil is non-corrosive to brass, bronze, steel or other alloys.
 
Nogoingback said:
Bob, just want to mention that a carbide tipped circular saw like that is not good for big chunks of steel. I've got a Makita which
is fine for tubing or thin stuff. Not so good for big sections. I cut through a chunk of 4130 one time: it took forever and the blade
had to be sharpened afterwords.
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I have a Morse Metal Devil saw which is similar. Yes it is great on stuff up to about ¼" much faster than a bandsaw but not good for solid bar. I use a wax stick lube, seems to help.
 
dlane said:
“A2 tool steel to wooden fence posts” Fence posts ? :confused 3:
Projectnut : that looks like a nice saw , do you put wood blades on it for the posts ?
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I have to admit I don't cut fence posts on a regular basis. The last post I cut was an old redwood one a couple days ago, and it was for kindling for the fireplace. I had a 10 - 14 tpi variable pitch metal blade on the saw. It cut through the redwood like butter. I did have to vacuum all the redwood saw dust up or it would have been tracked through the shop and house by the dogs. Actually the last thing I do every day before I leave the shop is clean the machines and vacuum the floor. I may be a slow learner, but over the years I have learned that if there's anything in the shop that can find it's way into the house the dogs will find a way to get it there.

I also have to admit being in the heart of the rust belt there are plenty of pieces of used equipment in good condition at reasonable prices. This saw came from a shop in Chicago. It was too small for the amount of production they were doing. Rather than destroy it by over working it they offered it at a good price and replaced it with an automated one nearly double the size.
 
ttabbal said:
How does one determine what is safe to use? I used a bottle of 90w gear oil I had on the shelf. It was purchased for differentials on a truck axle and worked fine for that. Would the oil for my lathe gearbox be a better choice? Mobil DTE.
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projectnut said:
I have to admit I don't cut fence posts on a regular basis. The last post I cut was an old redwood one a couple days ago, and it was for kindling for the fireplace. I had a 10 - 14 tpi variable pitch metal blade on the saw. It cut through the redwood like butter. I did have to vacuum all the redwood saw dust up or it would have been tracked through the shop and house by the dogs. Actually the last thing I do every day before I leave the shop is clean the machines and vacuum the floor. I may be a slow learner, but over the years I have learned that if there's anything in the shop that can find it's way into the house the dogs will find a way to get it there.

I also have to admit being in the heart of the rust belt there are plenty of pieces of used equipment in good condition at reasonable prices. This saw came from a shop in Chicago. It was too small for the amount of production they were doing. Rather than destroy it by over working it they offered it at a good price and replaced it with an automated one nearly double the size.
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Use Mobil SHC 634, it is made to resist damage to bronze gears. The grizzly parts are an exact fit on the HF 4x6. I use them on my HF 4x6.

Roy
 
My HF 4x6 saw has never cut completely square even after the usual mods, but its been long lived. Bought it used with a custom coolant system and home made stand. I've been wanting to upgrade though, but I wonder if any of the cheap ones actually cut square, I cut up 1x2 steel bars often and it would be nice to reduce milling time straightening up the slightly off cuts.

Have you considered the larger HF band saw? I've been thinking about getting one of these: https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?dir=asc&order=EAScore,f,EAFeatured+Weight,f,Sale+Rank,f&q=band+saw
 
SSage said:
My HF 4x6 saw has never cut completely square even after the usual mods, but its been long lived. Bought it used with a custom coolant system and home made stand. I've been wanting to upgrade though, but I wonder if any of the cheap ones actually cut square, I cut up 1x2 steel bars often and it would be nice to reduce milling time straightening up the slightly off cuts.

Have you considered the larger HF band saw? I've been thinking about getting one of these: https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?dir=asc&order=EAScore,f,EAFeatured+Weight,f,Sale+Rank,f&q=band+saw
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I'd be tempted to buy one today if they had one in stock locally. I probably wouldn't but I'd be tempted. LOL
 
These saws are sensitive to blade tension, blade speed and blade pressure. All of these can affect how straight the saw cuts. I have learned what my saw likes and it cuts pretty straight, but there was a learning curve for me. Still not sure if cutting thick aluminum whether to cut dry or wet? Dry, the blade seems to wander more... Need to experiment
Mark S.
 
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4gsr said:
There's a 100% chance the Grizzly gear will fit. They all pretty much came from the same factory. May want to buy the same matching worm also, just in case there is any difference in the two.
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Agree on the last sentence. The old worm gear may have developed some flaws and then it could ruin your new gear.
 
markba633csi said:
These saws are sensitive to blade tension, blade speed and blade pressure. All of these can affect how straight the saw cuts. I have learned what my saw likes and it cuts pretty straight, but there was a learning curve for me. Still not sure if cutting thick aluminum whether to cut dry or wet? Dry, the blade seems to wander more... Need to experiment
Mark S.
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I use a little rapid tap oil and ease the blade into the cut by hand. When its got a fresh blade I can adjust it moderately straight, but after its been abused a while all bets are off.
 
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