I have a question about lathe alignment

[Mark_f]

Wouldn't I need to check the headstock alignment to the ways before checking the tail stock alignment, and if so what is the best way to do so?

 

[Technical Ted]

If it were me and I was checking my South Bend 15" x 6' lathe, I would start at the beginning and level the lathe before doing anything else. Then, I would take a test cut and see what results I had. To me and the way my brain works, it doesn't make sense to check anything until you know the lathe is level to start with, because if you bed is twisted it will throw everything off.

So, I suggest you start with step #1: level the lathe. Step #2: take a test cut without using the tailstock and see what you have to determine where to go next.

Just my two cents,
Ted

 

[Mark_f]

One thing you might want to try when you're feeling better is to level the lathe and take a test cut and see if the lathe cuts straight. Yes, the lathe might move some with that foundation, but it doesn't seem to me that it would move immediately... so, level, take a test cut, check the piece and then you can even re-check level and see what results you get. Then, take action based on the results you see.

Hope you feel better and good luck,
Ted

Recently I did that. I leveled the lathe bed as close as I could get it but it still cut a taper and the tail stock alignment is different 12 inches out than up by the spindle.

 

[Al 1]

That floor is moving as you walk on it. In my opinion you have to start with a solid foundation. Al.

 

[dlane]

Not all floors are level, so leveling a lathe on a un level floor , would that account for anything ?.

 

[Technical Ted]

Recently I did that. I leveled the lathe bed as close as I could get it but it still cut a taper and the tail stock alignment is different 12 inches out than up by the spindle.

Can I ask how you are leveling it? Sounds like it is mounted on some type of bench or cabinet. I assume and hope you are leveling it by using the mounting screws/bolts/lags or whatever is fastening the lathe itself to the bench or table top rather than just leveling the bench or table itself? If the lathe bed it drawn down to whatever you have it mounted on twisted, leveling the cabinet or table top will have no effect to take the twist out of the lathe bed.

I assume you are doing it correctly, but just wanted to throw this out there.

Ted
r

 

[Mark_f]

Can I ask how you are leveling it? Sounds like it is mounted on some type of bench or cabinet. I assume and hope you are leveling it by using the mounting screws/bolts/lags or whatever is fastening the lathe itself to the bench or table top rather than just leveling the bench or table itself? If the lathe bed it drawn down to whatever you have it mounted on twisted, leveling the cabinet or table top will have no effect to take the twist out of the lathe bed.

I assume you are doing it correctly, but just wanted to throw this out there.

Ted
r

I used a machinist level to level the cabinet on the floor ( I know that is probably useless). I then leveled the bed on the cabinet and still cut a taper ( around .003" over 5 inches. That along with the tail stock lines up at the spindle but not at the other end of the bed is what made me think the head stock may be off.

 

[Mark_f]

That floor is moving as you walk on it. In my opinion you have to start with a solid foundation. Al.

Well ..... if it comes to rebuilding the shop, I'm afraid I will have to live with it.

 

[umahunter]

A cheap thick top a solid 1 3/4 particle door slab cost around 50 or under at a home store I've got one on my lathe desk with a piece of 1/4 steel plate the lathe sits on cheap and pretty flat

 

[34_40]

That floor is moving as you walk on it. In my opinion you have to start with a solid foundation. Al.

I'm in agreement with Al., I would add some support under the floor joists. Can't build reliability on a flexing foundation, then every time you might walk past the lathe while cutting it might flex and change the cut. ( IMHO.)