I got me one of these! HASLER SPEED INDICATOR

I have lots of things that take batteries, but I leave the batteries out of them until I am ready to use them, and then remove the batteries immediately afterward -- with a few exceptions. A flashlight for when the power goes off, a couple wall clocks, and my daily user HF digital calipers.
 
I just pulled my old mechanical tach out from under a pile of more often used tools, and it is a Misawa Seiki brand, Japanese. Its from the mid 60's.
Doesn't need any instructions since even I figured it out how to run it, although the instructions are clearly printed in the top of the box, if you read
Japanese. Although the photo makes it look round, the outer edge is polygonal just like Finster's Hasler. See below:

And to answer to Bob, I try to remember to take the batteries out, but being senile as I am, (just ask the wife) I sometimes forgets.
There's nothing worse than to open a battery compartment and find it filled with white crystalline powder and the contacts all
chewed up.:(

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QUOTE="RJSakowski, post: 478973, member: 36675"]And then it was sent on to Japan and the Japanese tapped the hole.[/QUOTE]
The way I heard it: The Swiss sent it back to the Germans who proclaimed themselves the winner of the competition since the Swiss returned the wire unchanged. The Swiss replied that the Germans were wrong, and they would have known that if they had examined the wire more closely. The Swiss cut the wire in two, and turned the end of one piece down and threaded it. The remaining half was bored and internally threaded, and the two pieces were screwed together.
 
Dave 41 said:
QUOTE="RJSakowski, post: 478973, member: 36675"]And then it was sent on to Japan and the Japanese tapped the hole.
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The way I heard it: The Swiss sent it back to the Germans who proclaimed themselves the winner of the competition since the Swiss returned the wire unchanged. The Swiss replied that the Germans were wrong, and they would have known that if they had examined the wire more closely. The Swiss cut the wire in two, and turned the end of one piece down and threaded it. The remaining half was bored and internally threaded, and the two pieces were screwed together.[/QUOTE]

I've heard the first version of this series of micro machining, but threading and tapping at that level might just require some historical investigation.
 
Finster said:
Well, I chucked up a piece of round stock on the lathe and drilled a center hole for testing this. The free app I downloaded on the phone was placing surface speed of the .750 round bar at 580 rpm. My antique Swiss timepiece was put in the center hole and measured 590 rpm. Now I don't know the math to figure it out (I'm sure someone here does) but I do know that the center will be spinning faster. That being said, it seems pretty good to me and as accurate as I need. If anyone can figure out the equation and see if they match, I would be interested, just for kicks. All in all, I think I scored pretty good. However, I hope it doesn't break, I doubt anyone could fix it and I believe the company finally went out of business in the 80's Not to big of a deal. I'll probably check all my belt settings on my machines, write it all down and it will sit in the drawer for the most part. Nice to have though.
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RPM equals cutting speed times 4 divided by the diameter of the moving part; this is not exact, but it was what I was taught in my high school machine shop class and can be easily done in your head. Cutting speed (in feet per minute) for soft steel is 100, alloy steel maybe 60, brass maybe 300, etc. This is from school shop, as I said, but that was 1963 ---- easiest thing is to get a slide rule cutting speed calculator; all the carbide tool companies gave them away back in the day, you can find them on E Bay; some are better for lathe work, some for milling, but they all will tell you what RPM to use if you know an acceptable speed in feet per minute.
 
dlane said:
Ordered one , $7. and change free shipping, hope it comes with reflective tapes x3
Thanks
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You can also use WHITE CHALK to mark the shaft. If you need to spot a shaft or whatever just put a chalk mark on it. I used it just yesterday to check the TAC on a tractor.

fixit
 
I have one of the Chinese optical tachs, I bought it about 10 years ago from Meter-Depot, for about $20 shipped. I have 2 tools with optical encoders, that read the spindle rpm, the tach reads exactly the same rpm. I have permanent pieces of silver tape on all of the spindles, covered by a small piece of clear packing tape. It keeps the reflective tape in place and doesn't effect the reading. I also have a Stewart-Warner direct contact tach, the resolution of the dial is poor, it will get the rpm, within 20-25 rpm.

I have a few machines where I changed pulleys/sheaves to get the rpms I wanted, I then made a speed chart for all of the belt positions.
 
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