I can't read a Cross Slide Feed Handle?

I dont know much but so this is more of a question......What about tool flex, backlash other unwanted "slop" movements and forces that tend to pull certain tools into the work causing deeper cuts then intended?
 
Inexperience or not, I still think these mini lathes benefit from some sort of digital or analog measuring devices attached to the cross slide and compound slide.
I've seen quite a few videos on DIY dros for these machines using inexpensive digital calipers or dial indicators ,the upgrades must be a lot of fun also.
 
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Latinrascalrg1 said:
What about tool flex, backlash other unwanted "slop" movements and forces that tend to pull certain tools into the work causing deeper cuts then intended?
Click to expand...

Yes, I should have pointed out a couple of things in my post as well!

I did notice early that after I had made a finishing cut with my radius tool, if I left a little too much weight of my hand on the turn-radius tool handle (it is rather long), it would cause the tooltip to dig in significantly into the rotating work. A problem of rigidity here, which I know can not always be avoided. So one thing I tired to do is avoid putting weight of my hand on the handle while operating it. I even decided to grip the handle closer to the base, to minimize torque issues.

Also to add to that, my tool is below center (I can't find a proper shim just yet to get this right), and have been told that tooltips below center will dig-in when in use, so these are also contributing factors for sure. Thanks for reminding me!

Either way, next time I cut into work, I will also shave off the rougher outside metal first to minimize any misjudgments with the eye.
 
Ken from ontario said:
Inexperience or not, I still think these mini lathes benefit from some sort of digital or analog measuring devices attached to the cross slide and compound slide.
I've seen quite a few videos on DIY dros for these machines using inexpensive digital calipers or dial indicators ,the upgrades must be a lot of fun also.
Click to expand...


I agree 100%.

I have a Craftex (BusyBee) 7x12 and use dial indicators on everything - carriage, cross slide, compound & one more for the Z axis when using my (home made) milling attachment. No way would I trust the dials alone....learned that right away when I first got it. Carriage hand wheel doesn't even have a graduation dial to begin with, compound dial seems to move fine but DOC never coincides with what I (thought) I dialed in, & forget about the compound dial....that sucker has a mind all of its own. Didn't matter how many times or ways I adjusted it, that dial still has a habit of stopping every once in a while (not all the time) for 1/2 - 3/4 of a turn. Aggravating to say the least.

LOL....it looks more like an old steam engine at times with gauges everywhere than it does a lathe, but at least now I know when I dial in .001" or even .0005" that's what I'm getting. The wee lathe, along with its owner, will never be able to produce NASA quality parts, but it is ALOT easier to come in on finished size now.
 
I no longer have the lathe but I was referring to the error shown in the video (Thank you Ken). The metric lead screw only approximates Imperial even though the dial is calibrated in Imperial.
Robert
 
Here is a tip for setting the tool height. Buy a set of feeler gauges like the ones for setting spark plug gaps. All those leaves gives you ample variety to get the tool to the right height.
 
I worked in a shop where they insisted on indicators be used . Ever since its the only way I've ever done work on any machine. And that was over forty years ago. I still have indicators set up on my lathe . Never trust the dials , backlash and worn screws don't tell you how bad they are.
 
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