Husky A1S - 8x30... Just purchased my first mill.

[Z2V]

Yes, the cap screw is toward the operator, crank handle.

 

[Radials]

Radials, like your color choice it’s the same as mine. I don’t want to jac the op’s thread just to say if you post a thread I’ll put it on the watch list. I’ll be taking my spindle apart for bearing replacement soon and variable speed drive. Here is a part breakdown if you don’t have one.

Thank you, and that's a good reference to have. The grizzly parts reference is what I have used until now, but it doesn't show assemblies so this is excellent! My spindle is apart right now and a difference I notice is that mine has two opposing 7207 bearings in the nose while this version has a smaller 6007zz bearing backing it up. The spindle in my machine was completely seized up when I got it because the 30 year old grease in the bearings was broken down. The bearings went through the process of being soaked in acetone for days then wiped, picked at, and aired out several times over and they look great now. They obviously didn't see much use and I really didn't want to spring for the replacements so I'm happy they looked so good after clean up. Good luck with your spindle rebuild and the conversion. I'll be envious of your VFD.

Please feel free to post about your mill on this thread if you would like to! I had a hard time finding any information on the 8 x 30's when I was looking to buy. Any pictures or information on 8 x 30 or even 6 x 24's would be great to have.

Thanks Mike, but I think I'll still put together a rebuild thread (at some point) that will be a bit more generic to the 8x30 line of mills. Like Z2V said I don't want to take your thread off topic either.

Nick, thank you for the picture! My mill is shoved in the corner while I am rearranging my shop. I will do my best to get to the nut and get you an answer. Is it holding up your reassemble currently?

Sounds like you've got a big project on your hands. I've got an engine hoist if you need to borrow one. That has been invaluable in moving and disassembling both my mill and lathe solo.

Yes, the cap screw is toward the operator, crank handle.

Awesome, Thanks!

-Nick

 

[MikeInOr]

Thank you for the offer Nick! The mill was about on the edge of where I felt comfortable with my engine hoist (great investment... like you said) for unloading. I built a gantry out of wood to unload the lathe. At ~1500 lbs the lathe is my heaviest machine and required the gantry to keep everything safe.

I appreciate your endorsement of the COCC machining program. I am not looking to change careers, just acquire the skills to use my toys safely and effectively. I have been a woodworker for a very long time with a real weakness for old WW machines. My machinist buddy that would reproduce the worn out parts in what ever WW machine I was rebuilding moved away so I figured I would take the plunge into machining (plus it is something I have always wanted to do!). I work by the airport so the COCC campus is very convenient... and a class will motivate me to spend the time learning.

I look forwards to your rebuild thread! (I know it can be kind of hard to do a rebuild and keep up a rebuild thread going along with it... but it would be great if you could!)

P.S. Z2V - thank you for jumping in with the nut orientation... this is such a great forum!

 

[Z2V]

Mike
Like the gantry, did you bolt it together or is it nailed? Casters?

Radials
Interesting that our spindles have different bearing configurations. Sounds like after you clean out all the old dried grease you will have a like new machine!

I’ll be following along with you guys

Cheers

 

[MikeInOr]

The gantry is mostly bolted together. The uprights are three 2 x 4's glued and screwed (Laminated). The top is three 2 x 10's bolted together. The rest is bolted together so I can quickly and easily disassemble it into 5 pieces and stow it away when not in use. I ran out of bolts for the upper braces so they are just screwed on for now. The 2 x 10's sit directly on top of the laminated 2 x 4 uprights. Without any weight the upright 2 x 4's sit about 1/4" above the ground. When I put weight on the gantry the uprights touch the ground and lock in the Y braces nice and tight. None of the lifting weight is on the joints, the lifting weight is directly transferred to the floor via the laminated uprights.

The uprights are 8' long... I should have gone 10' long. Oh well, easily replaced with 10' 2 x 4's later. In the lower picture you can see I came up 6" short.

You can kind of see the bases in this picture. Pull out the uprights and the Y braces fold down between the 2 x 4 bases. The Y braces are offset so they fold flat between the bases for storage.

The three 2 x 10's on top can be lifted into place one at a time which makes assembly a lot easier than trying to lift a trippled 2 x 10 eight feet into the air by myself. No casters... the plan is to stow it when I don't need it. I might add casters if the need ever arises but casters rated for a decent amount of weight are pretty pricey.


And thank you!... I am kind of proud of my gantry. With the 1500 lb lathe it didn't even creak.

 

[Chipper5783]

Never really thought about leveling the mill.

I agree, it is not a requirement to level a mill. But on the general principle of craftsmanship and attention to detail get it sort of level and so it does not rock. If your machine is level, that can be a help when setting up an awkward piece - you can set that piece at what ever orientation, knowing what the machine orientation (it is level).

 

[Z2V]

The gantry is mostly bolted together. The uprights are three 2 x 4's glued and screwed (Laminated). The top is three 2 x 10's bolted together. The rest is bolted together so I can quickly and easily disassemble it into 5 pieces and stow it away when not in use. I ran out of bolts for the upper braces so they are just screwed on for now. The 2 x 10's sit directly on top of the laminated 2 x 4 uprights. Without any weight the upright 2 x 4's sit about 1/4" above the ground. When I put weight on the gantry the uprights touch the ground and lock in the Y braces nice and tight. None of the lifting weight is on the joints, the lifting weight just gets directly transferred to the floor via the laminated uprights.

The uprights are 8' long... I should have gone 10' long. Oh well, easily replaced with 10' 2 x 4's later. In the lower picture you can see I came up 6" short.

You can kind of see the bases in this picture. Pull out the uprights and the Y braces fold down between the 2 x 4 bases. The Y braces are offset so they fold flat between the bases for storage.
View attachment 257940

The three 2 x 10's on top can be lifted into place one at a time which makes assembly a lot easier than trying to lift a trippled 2 x 10 eight feet into the air by myself. No casters... the plan is to stow it when I don't need it. I might add casters if the need ever arises but casters rated for a decent amount of weight are pretty pricey.


And thank you!... I am kind of proud of my gantry. With the 1500 lb lathe it didn't even creak.

View attachment 257941

I’m impressed, well done

 

[Radials]

"And thank you!... I am kind of proud of my gantry. With the 1500 lb lathe it didn't even creak. "

Bigger future machine purchases here you come!

 

[glennyb]

Ulma, thank you. Very helpful! I was just looking at a set of the Shars collets on ebay last night and realized I had no idea what to look for as far as quality tooling that I would not regret purchasing later. The recommendations are very helpful! Thanks for the tip on using a collet to hold a drill chuck for quick tool changing... something I hadn't thought of but it makes a lot of sense.

A couple pics from the CL add.
View attachment 252793View attachment 252794View attachment 252795

 

[glennyb]

Hi, I have recently acquired a similar "HUSKY" mill, except mine has a factory 3 speed drive for the Y axis .
The hand wheel on the Z axis has been replaced with a cheap plastic one, and I want to replace it.
I see on yours it is cast wheel could you please tell me the diameter of it.
Thank-you