I hate to sound stupid but exactly what is parkerizing and how do you do it ? I've heard it before but never really knew what it was or what it looks like. Any pics or is that relevant ?
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HSS Tool Holders -Question
- Thread starter bcall2043
- Start date
I hate to sound stupid but exactly what is parkerizing and how do you do it ? I've heard it before but never really knew what it was or what it looks like. Any pics or is that relevant ?
Parkerizing is a pretty safe and simple finishing process for ferrous metals . You can buy or make the solution and there are several types which give slight differences in color etc. I buy mine from Brownells. 1st step is bead blasting, then dip for about 15 mins in near boiling water and solution (follow instructions with solution), dry and oil.
This is something I did 10 or 20 years ago. It was a rusted hunk that was found in an old car trunk and given to a friend who owns a gun shop and then legally transferred to me. Notice the pitting even after bead blasting. It shoots well for what it is. I even did the bolt that was rusted into place, so not much worries over moving parts. It doesn't add anything but converts the surface.
quickest example I could think of to get a picture of.
Steve
This is something I did 10 or 20 years ago. It was a rusted hunk that was found in an old car trunk and given to a friend who owns a gun shop and then legally transferred to me. Notice the pitting even after bead blasting. It shoots well for what it is. I even did the bolt that was rusted into place, so not much worries over moving parts. It doesn't add anything but converts the surface.
quickest example I could think of to get a picture of.
Steve
Yep. Basically a conversion that stops iron from looking for oxygen and holds oil well as an additional sealant. Another caveat is that it doesn't want to work on a smooth surface. That is no problem for me as my machining is seldom smooth.
Steve
Steve
I just finished the thing and must be doing something wrong. I get better finishes with carbide tools even when taking wimpy bites.
I set the thing up and faced the piece to be sure of center and then took a .007 D.O.C. set for turning to shoulder. 1018 CRS which is often a little difficult to get a good finish on but this is my test piece and what good is getting a good finish on 12L14? I'll post more pictures of my setup on the tangential cutter but just to rule out lathe issues or extended to far etc.
After testing the tangential, I cut ~1/2" with a touched up import AR5, then swapped to a TCMT insert and cut abit more. So in the picture the cut on left was Tangential, middle TCMT insert, right end AR-5.
So please look at the other pictures and see if any of you guys running the cutters sees my error.
Steve
I set the thing up and faced the piece to be sure of center and then took a .007 D.O.C. set for turning to shoulder. 1018 CRS which is often a little difficult to get a good finish on but this is my test piece and what good is getting a good finish on 12L14? I'll post more pictures of my setup on the tangential cutter but just to rule out lathe issues or extended to far etc.
After testing the tangential, I cut ~1/2" with a touched up import AR5, then swapped to a TCMT insert and cut abit more. So in the picture the cut on left was Tangential, middle TCMT insert, right end AR-5.
So please look at the other pictures and see if any of you guys running the cutters sees my error.
Steve
I'm definitely not trying to be a wet blanket here, but I see an issue inherent in the tangential tool holder that will probably keep me from making one. I recognize and accept that a correctly sharpened HSS tool will curl off a beautiful chip, and is easy on the machine because it is a high positive tool. BUT....with the little to no radius on the flat ground HSS blank, there is no tool nose radius, and therefore there is a limit to the feedrate that will yield a smooth finish. As I understand it, the only sharpening or grinding done is to the top, or end, of the tool bit. In most cases where there is a shoulder to be turned to, a radius is very much desired in the corner, for strength. In fact, it is specified on most manufactured parts for that reason. Unless you put a radius on the tool blank, or are very good with both hands, there can be little to no radius in the corner. This needle sharp tool corner can make getting a cut-smooth surface difficult to impossible without slowing the feedrate to a crawl.
My Disclaimer: I've only seen, but never cut with, a tangential tool holder.
My Disclaimer: I've only seen, but never cut with, a tangential tool holder.
Most of my HSS tool blanks are ground with a sharp corner on all sides. The one I happened to grab for the tangential bit has a slight radius on the corners. Resharpening the top face brings it back to that radius.
For the sharp-cornered blanks, it is easy to lay the blank on your diamond hone with the working corner down and work in a radius down the full length.
For the sharp-cornered blanks, it is easy to lay the blank on your diamond hone with the working corner down and work in a radius down the full length.
Good points on the radius you two. I had noticed that and had some concern then realized I was probably still feeding 5-10 thou/rev went out and turned the feed down to .0027 /rev. really not much difference. I'll hone in a radius in the 1/4" near the tip. I really don't think the test piece will know it's not full length as I have turned the internet off to the garage 
and it can't read this!
I'm really just hoping to bring another tool into the mix. It just seems that this thing should excel at something. I don't cut AL much but I'll give it a try on it and if it does well I'm a happy cow tipper!
I finished the tool and looked on the bottom and there was no instructions! So I thought I'd ask you guys and see that I wasn't using the wrong end or something silly. I'm thinking I got everything close to right and just need to work on the nuances.
Steve
and it can't read this!I'm really just hoping to bring another tool into the mix. It just seems that this thing should excel at something. I don't cut AL much but I'll give it a try on it and if it does well I'm a happy cow tipper!
I finished the tool and looked on the bottom and there was no instructions! So I thought I'd ask you guys and see that I wasn't using the wrong end or something silly. I'm thinking I got everything close to right and just need to work on the nuances.
Steve
So I went out this morning before meeting up with my breakfast buddy and honed about 1/64" radius down the leading edge for ~1/4".
Bands from left; tangential with no radius .005/rev, TCMT insert .005"/rev, tangential no radius .0027"/rev, on right tangential with radius .0027"/rev. All at 570rpm. Much smoother and all of them look worse than they are in the pictures. I'll keep playing with it. I doubt it will replace carbide for steel/alloys for me but I think I may have a great tool for aluminum here.
BTW It's always interesting when your 97yr old friend points across a crowded Ihop and whispers "Is THAT a woman?" In that quiet as an unmuffled lawnmower whisper.
Steve
Bands from left; tangential with no radius .005/rev, TCMT insert .005"/rev, tangential no radius .0027"/rev, on right tangential with radius .0027"/rev. All at 570rpm. Much smoother and all of them look worse than they are in the pictures. I'll keep playing with it. I doubt it will replace carbide for steel/alloys for me but I think I may have a great tool for aluminum here.
BTW It's always interesting when your 97yr old friend points across a crowded Ihop and whispers "Is THAT a woman?" In that quiet as an unmuffled lawnmower whisper.
Steve
The radius on the tangential cutter?
Well as mentioned before, I have a version of Niels (FarFar) tangential tool cutter. I have been using since last yr. Also I have mentioned that I do most of my sharpening with a belt sander. The nose radius is somthing I put on my HSS tooling as a habit. Again, this is done on the belt sander.
I just use a 120 grit , well used belt, and the front nose edge that you would want the radius, just hold the HSS bit in your fingers, and rock the bit while running it on the belt. As usual, keep the cutting end to the trailing end of the belt. This will put a radius on the complete length of the tool bit in like 5-seconds. Your tooling will automaticly have a nose radius, and not a sharp pointy end. this gives a great finish.
Try it, you might like it.
Well as mentioned before, I have a version of Niels (FarFar) tangential tool cutter. I have been using since last yr. Also I have mentioned that I do most of my sharpening with a belt sander. The nose radius is somthing I put on my HSS tooling as a habit. Again, this is done on the belt sander.
I just use a 120 grit , well used belt, and the front nose edge that you would want the radius, just hold the HSS bit in your fingers, and rock the bit while running it on the belt. As usual, keep the cutting end to the trailing end of the belt. This will put a radius on the complete length of the tool bit in like 5-seconds. Your tooling will automaticly have a nose radius, and not a sharp pointy end. this gives a great finish.
Try it, you might like it.