How To Safely Secure A Load On Your Truck/trailer

I'm Tom and I approve of this discussion.

I've been fortunate that I haven't had to use tie-downs and trailers or trucks, but loads must be securely mounted for transportation, much too much is far preferable to not quite enough.
 
I often use rope to tie loads.
For me, they are a lot easier than unlatching a ratchet tie.
The Truckers hitch is a great way to tie. You can cinch it up very tightly.
I usually tie the half hitch around both the tag end and rope.

An alternate method is to tie a bowline to make a loop at one end of the rope and wrap it like a big noose, then tie it off like a truckers hitch with a half hitch.

truckers-hitch.jpg
 
Last edited:
Way back in my younger years, I recall dad loading a machine in his truck or trailer. The only hold down he used was a half worn out come-a-long to tie it down with! And down the road he would go... He never drove any faster than 45 mph and this was back when the speed limits were still 55 mph, not the 70+ mph we have today.

Even today, with all of the 2" straps I use, I still throw a chain around the machine being careful not to damage any machined surfaces, and boom it down solid. I'll even secure cribbing around the footing of the machine to prevent it from sliding around in the bed of the trailer. My second rule of thumb is, if it weighs over 3000 lbs, hire a rigger or roll back service to move the machine for you. Might cost a couple hundred dollars, but well worth it. Ken
 
Many years ago I was a tank crew man in Germany. One of the most hair-raising duties was loading and securing the tanks on rail cars for transportation to training exercises.

tank 1.jpg

Please note that the bottom picture accurately depicts the situation - the treads hung over both sides of the flat bed cars by almost half. We had to drive down the line of cars that way until we got to our assigned spot.

Our M60 series tanks weighed 53 tons. The chain binders were equipped with turn buckles. The front and rear were blocked and the blocks were nailed down with 40d nails. Now I know that folks here are not likely to move anything that heavy. But the main reason for mentioning it is one little detail - using wire to secure the chain hooks:

tank 2.gif


  • "c. Chain Application. Vehicle chains are applied in pairs and parallel to each other. Do not attach chains in a vertical position. The angle between the chain and the car deck must not exceed 45 degrees when viewed from the side. Chains must not kink, twist, or cross. (The shackles and shackle mounts are not designed to be pulled from an oblique angle and thus will not hold their rated strength.)

    d. Chain Hooks. Chain hooks must be secured with wire. Wire must be passed through the chain link and the throat of the hook and fastened on the backside of the hooks (Figure 20-27). Do not apply wire around the open end of the hooks. Without the wire, the hook will fall off because of slack action during transit."
 
Charles Spencer said:
View attachment 134453


  • "c. Chain Application. Vehicle chains are applied in pairs and parallel to each other. Do not attach chains in a vertical position. The angle between the chain and the car deck must not exceed 45 degrees when viewed from the side. Chains must not kink, twist, or cross. (The shackles and shackle mounts are not designed to be pulled from an oblique angle and thus will not hold their rated strength.)

    d. Chain Hooks. Chain hooks must be secured with wire. Wire must be passed through the chain link and the throat of the hook and fastened on the backside of the hooks (Figure 20-27). Do not apply wire around the open end of the hooks. Without the wire, the hook will fall off because of slack action during transit."
Click to expand...
For more than forty years, I have been fighting those grab hooks. A simpler solution to a pesky problem! Thanks Charles!
 
Charles Spencer said:
Many years ago I was a tank crew man in Germany. One of the most hair-raising duties was loading and securing the tanks on rail cars for transportation to training exercises.

View attachment 134451

Please note that the bottom picture accurately depicts the situation - the treads hung over both sides of the flat bed cars by almost half. We had to drive down the line of cars that way until we got to our assigned spot.

Our M60 series tanks weighed 53 tons. The chain binders were equipped with turn buckles. The front and rear were blocked and the blocks were nailed down with 40d nails. Now I know that folks here are not likely to move anything that heavy. But the main reason for mentioning it is one little detail - using wire to secure the chain hooks:

View attachment 134453


  • "c. Chain Application. Vehicle chains are applied in pairs and parallel to each other. Do not attach chains in a vertical position. The angle between the chain and the car deck must not exceed 45 degrees when viewed from the side. Chains must not kink, twist, or cross. (The shackles and shackle mounts are not designed to be pulled from an oblique angle and thus will not hold their rated strength.)

    d. Chain Hooks. Chain hooks must be secured with wire. Wire must be passed through the chain link and the throat of the hook and fastened on the backside of the hooks (Figure 20-27). Do not apply wire around the open end of the hooks. Without the wire, the hook will fall off because of slack action during transit."
Click to expand...

Have to add my two cents worth on the subject. As Charles has shown there is a right and wrong way for load securement, the military has their own set of procedures. I am familiar with most of the procedures being in the heavy haul truck business for 43 years. I have moved literally hundreds of M1-A1 Abrams heavy tanks for the army, more specifically the Texas Army National Guard. The Abram weighs 134,000 lbs. with the battle skirts installed.
Also moved drilling rigs for years, with some components weighing in excess of 100K and very top heavy.

All that being said, the main thing is if you don't know what you are doing, it is safer and maybe a whole lot cheaper in the long run , to employ someone with experience (and insurance). Top heavy loads are extra problematic, and require extra securement and dunage.
Some basic rules that apply:
1. Use separate securement devices whether (approved) nylon straps and hardware on all four corners. I the cargo is very heavy, use chains and ratchet binders.
2. Use heavy dunage under load to spread load over larger footprint.
3. Make sure trailer is up to the task, tires, floor and super structure
4. DOT approved 4" straps will work for most loads, but be careful of sharp edges on cargo. Do not use frayed or cut straps.
5. Tall cargo, like a mill needs to be secured not only at the base but also higher up as well, they are top heavy.
6. Use good common sense, if it seems like it might not be safe, it probably isn't.

Be careful guys...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top