How to mill a Rectangular Pocket with the Vertical Milling Machine

  • Thread starter Thread starter Tom Griffin
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Tom Griffin

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Here's a short video showing how to mill a precisely sized and located rectangular pocket on the vertical mill.

Tom

[video=youtube_share;GRL9Pf7STSM]http://youtu.be/GRL9Pf7STSM[/video]
 
Tom, another great video. Keep them coming. Super resource for people just entering the field and for those of us who want to learn to do it better. Always something to learn.
 
Thanks Mike.

That's my objective; a bunch of short videos covering techniques and concepts that are obvious to the experienced machinist but invaluable to those just starting out.

Tom
 
Great video. Sure beets the Superbowl half time show. :lmao: This is defiantly a good one for people just starting on the mill. Thanks for making and posting this.

Jeff
 
I would just be happy with readouts for my mill
 
Nice work Tom, very informative.

I have a couple of questions about a some things I'm not clear on.

What type of cutter were you using? I'm thinking you were using a slot drill as you were able to plunge it all the way through.

I notice you were climb milling which from my experience with my little mini-mill gives a better finish but conventional milling from my understanding is better for a less rigid machine (like my mini-mill)? I'm guessing rigidity isn't a problem with your mill.

I didn't notice you locking the x & y axis, do you / were you locking the stationary axis?
 
Thanks Mayhem. I'm glad they could be of some use to you.

David:

The cutter was a 2-flute center cutting end mill. I chose a 2-flute because they have more clearance than 4-flutes and tend to load up less in aluminum. On the first pass of milling a pocket like this, climb milling is the way to go because the rotation of the cutter will force the table against the rotation of the feed screws. Consequently, the table doesn't need to be locked. On a less rigid machine, you may want to consider locking the stationary axis and maybe snugging up the lock on the moving axis because the cutter will be trying to pull the table into it, especially on the finish pass.

Climb milling can be your friend or it can be your enemy. You just need to keep your guard up be able to recognize the conditions that can get you into trouble. For instance: If you milled the side of a part in the vise and tried to climb mill, the cutter would attempt to "climb" up on the part and pull it in. This would be a good time to use conventional milling AND lock the table AND take the backlash out of your lead screw, at least for the roughing cuts. Climb milling will almost always give you a better finish than conventional milling, the few exceptions being some types of plastics and soft stringy metals.

Thanks for the excellent questions.

Tom
 
Thats quite a juggling job, filming AND machining at the same time !!!
Was a small camera attached to your hat???
Be Carefull, But GREAT STUFF !!!!!! CUDOS !!
 
Thats quite a juggling job, filming AND machining at the same time !!!
Was a small camera attached to your hat???
Be Carefull, But GREAT STUFF !!!!!! CUDOS !!

Thanks!

I really need to find a cameraman. There were things I had to leave out because I only have three hands.

Maybe I should consider the hat suggestion. :thinking:

Tom
 
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