How to dial in part in 4-jaw chuck that doesn't protrude jaws

or if your centre hole from the arbor is true face a piece of scrap and crazy glue your disc to it. Use a centre in the tailstock to align.

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or if your centre hole from the arbor is true face a piece of scrap and crazy glue your disc to it. Use a centre in the tailstock to align.

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As a old school machinist I would not try to indicate the part. I would load part in 4 jaw then indicate the inside of the jaws them selfs at the 4 points where jaws come into contact with part. If 4 points are true then parts are true.
Jim Sehr
 
How does this compare to delrin and is it more expensive?
UHMW is softer and less rigid than delrin and produces very stringy, tough chips. It requires sharp cutting tools and is prone to pushing out of the way instead of cutting, making it nearly impossible to hold close tolerances. It is very abrasion resistant and has a high coefficient of thermal expansion. Sometimes called "poor man's Teflon".
 
This is what I would do If you have a faceplate, put something behind it like a aluminum plate with a 10mm hole , use a threaded rod through the spindle , indicate your disc , put some clamps then remove the threaded rod
 
You should have left it on the arbor. For example, bore the ID to size, press in an arbor (make one if you don't have the correct size), put the arbor in your 4-jaw and dial in the arbor. To get the part far enough away from the jaws of your chuck, put another disk between your part and the chuck, then turn the outside.
 
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