How To Cut a Ball End on Allen Hex Wrenches

[RJSakowski]

I would add two dowel pins to plates for additional alignment. Once the initial setup is done, it should only take a minute or so to modify a wrench.

 

[homebrewed]

Some years back, I purchased a Bondhus set, to get the smaller sizes. That purchase didn't pay off and they were set aside. I think I still have most of them. . . I think. Common sense tells me that the reduced cross section of the undercuts would not take the high torque of secure fastening, just for running the fasteners down. As a result, I just take a little more time and use regular wrenches. Sometimes with a "helper" to get (galled?) fasteners loose.

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I've snapped off the end of a Bondhus allen wrench so you are correct. Since then I won't use them unless there's no alternative. Sometimes there isn't.

On a slightly different subject, I want to know WHY every allen wrench set I own has just one missing one, and why it always is the one I need,

 

[hman]

Murphy never sleeps.

 

[sdelivery]

I work Bhondus allen wrenches like red headed step children...and put them away wet.
I use cheaters on the small end the ball is plenty strong, yes I have broken off a few but that was only on very stubborn fasteners.
Is it the ideal way? No.
But time is money and Allen wrenches are disposable.
I also have cut off many and use them in sockets for hard to reach fasteners, plenty strong, and well priced....watch for the combination pack to go on sale. It does about once a year.

 

[Bi11Hudson]

Is it the ideal way? No.
But time is money and Allen wrenches are disposable.

A goodly portion of that "time is money" is the cause for lower reliability in modern machines. I'm more of the philosophy of "do it right, or don't do it". I have been involved in several jobs where the "time is money" fellow did a "less than first class" job with fiber optic splicing and the splice case needed to be redone. Fibre Optics is almost as touchy as inside machine shop work. In the fabrication process, tolerances must be kept within reasonable limits. "Reasonable" limits being defined by what end result is needed to do the job well. These days, my work is sloppy at best. But within the necessary limits to make my models operate properly. . . If I was building a rocket ship for going to the moon, much of the work would need to be farmed out. But I'm not, so it isn't. But money isn't the bottom line, even for professionals. Reliability comes first. If the work is too difficult, find a different line of work. One can always dig ditches for a living. Consider any medical doctor, would you want "less than first class" from one?

On a slightly different subject, I want to know WHY every allen wrench set I own has just one missing one, and why it always is the one I need,

In response to the "tongue in cheek" philosophical question, I offer a "tongue in cheek" answer; to wit, the last time a particular size was used, it got damaged (bent, et al) and was set on the desk to remind you to replace it. Then got covered up with papers or some such and forgotton. At least, that's what usually happens in my shop. The principal applies to most any tool, not just hex wrenches.

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[Bi11Hudson]

I seem to have been distracted and gone down a side road.
On the original question of making a ball end on the hex wrench, I would think grinding the ball would be a simpler approach than milling. Hex wrenches are made from many grades of steel; some from an alloy of aluminium and toilet paper and some of (semi) hardened or spring steel(Bhondus). I personally would use an indexer and a (light, multi-pass) grinding wheel to maintain the hex configuration on the tip. I haven't run across a need for one in all my years as an electrician where, once loosened, a Wally World set wouldn't do the job. But that's my line of work. . .

If I ever run into a situation where a ball end was absolutely necessary, it would be simple enough to make one for a "one time" use. Using that grinding wheel and my horizontal mill. For my work now, a small size such as a Dremel would probably work best.

I have a stock of miscellaneous wrenches acquired from a supply house that was closing out. I don't know the brand, just that they were U.S. made of a good quality steel. I bought them for stock, some pretty big, 1/2 inch or better. The small ones went fast, mostly for couplings. The bigger ones will be there if I ever need one.

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[RJSakowski]

The problem with a ball end Allen wrench is not that the wrench is weaker but that the ball end only makes contact with the socket at six points rather than on six lines. This can cause the socket to strip out making it difficult to extract the screw.

That said, I use them on numerous occasions when I can't get a straight line shot at the socket. In many cases, I can get the short leg in to break the screw free and then switch to the ball end to remove the screw. When installing a screw, I will run the screw un to snug and tighten with the short leg.

I wouldn't buy them instead of regular Allen wrenches but I wouldn't be without them either.