How low can I go?

[Tuba Dave]

I need to use a slitting saw on a project, but I only have 2mm clearance below the groove I need to make. So I am looking to make a low profile saw arbor.

How thin can I make the retaining "cap"? I like the design from Joe Pie's video because most of the cap fits into the arbor, and the retaining screw is countersunk. Is <2mm too thin for a "washer"? I assume it just needs to hold the blade in place, a lot of the "stability" can come from the arbor side of the blade (a good assumption?)

BTW, the project is plastic, so not so much tool pressure.

Thanks for your advice

PS, the groove itself is about 2mm wide, so maybe some stability can come from the thickness of the blade.

 

[mmcmdl]

Pardon Our Interruption

Something like this work ? Shank with a small blade and maybe some silver solder ?

 

[RaisedByWolves]

I need to use a slitting saw on a project, but I only have 2mm clearance below the groove I need to make. So I am looking to make a low profile saw arbor.

How thin can I make the retaining "cap"? I like the design from Joe Pie's video because most of the cap fits into the arbor, and the retaining screw is countersunk. Is <2mm too thin for a "washer"? I assume it just needs to hold the blade in place, a lot of the "stability" can come from the arbor side of the blade (a good assumption?)

BTW, the project is plastic, so not so much tool pressure.

Thanks for your advice

PS, the groove itself is about 2mm wide, so maybe some stability can come from the thickness of the blade.

I made this one without any real concern for clearance, and my cap came out 4mm above the blade.

With modification I could see it working at 2mm as the cap screw is almost as large as the button cap.

It really depends on your saw, the diameter and how stiff/thick it is.

This one is only .025”

 

[Tuba Dave]

Pardon Our Interruption

Something like this work ? Shank with a small blade and maybe some silver solder ?

 

[Tuba Dave]

That's not a bad idea
I could use a screw to center the blade on an arbor, solder it on and remove the screw.
I hope tool pressure on plastic is less than the shear strength of a silver solder joint.

 

[mmcmdl]

Turn the shank for the cutter bore and chamfer it and fill it in . Shouldn't have any trouble with plastic.

 

[markba633csi]

1 MM is about 0.03937 inch- fairly thick washer

 

[ChazzC]

That's not a bad idea
I could use a screw to center the blade on an arbor, solder it on and remove the screw.
I hope tool pressure on plastic is less than the shear strength of a silver solder joint.

You haven’t given us any info on the depth or length of the cut, or the material & configuration, but I have used these for slitting the end of rigid plastic tubes (yes, it’s heresy, but it was all I had at the time and it worked):

 

[Tuba Dave]

This is to cut a groove in a two-sided plastic cheese grater, paddle shaped. There is a shuttle that holds small items for slicing, but the reverse side does not have a groove for the shuttle to ride in. The groove should be about 6 inches long and about 2 mm deep

How about a 2mm T-slot cutter in HSS? ($15 on amazon)?

 

[ChazzC]

This is to cut a groove in a two-sided plastic cheese grater, paddle shaped. There is a shuttle that holds small items for slicing, but the reverse side does not have a groove for the shuttle to ride in. The groove should be about 6 inches long and about 2 mm deep

How about a 2mm T-slot cutter in HSS? ($15 on amazon)?

That would work assuming you can hold it with minimal stick out.