How Do I Make This Part?

You might try, instead of bruising balsa, casting some plastic on the shaft, spray it with Pam, or other suitable vegetable non-stick spray, (temporary mold release compound) packing JB weld around it with an embedded flat head screw for a handle. This would give you an exact copy of what you're trying to fabricate.
 
Hi! You may be able to use low temperature fixturing alloy, I get mine from enco model# MH505-3877 in the last flyer I got.
This one melts at 180 deg. Others melt at lower or higher temperatures. Just make a plug and measure it to your hearts content.
I would also look at a torqe (spelling) type screw and see if it would fit with a little tlc.
Looks like you are on the right track. I hate plastic out side.
 
SkyKen said:
I would also look at a torqe (spelling) type screw and see if it would fit with a little tlc.
Click to expand...

Hey SkyKen, I like that idea; start with a torx-head bolt and modify it......however, a torx is 6-point and this beast is 7, with one odd-ball sized one....so it may not work out being low "tlc".

The more I think about it, I'd just find a nut that goes over the spline and jb-weld it in place, then make a handle for the hex nut...

-brino
 
Sorry Brino I did not count the splines, my bad. Hey I did not count the splines on a torx either.
Got to go wash the plane and get the condition inspection done before the weekend.
Ken
 
Sounds like a proprietary design, a pain in the neck. I like JB weld just make sure there are no air bubbles.
 
Ulma Doctor said:
Hi Harvey,
i understood what you were trying to describe.
this is not answering your question at all, but rather another way of doing the operation.
the material you chose for the handle is aluminum.
with a little planning , you could make a rotary broach from basic elements and form the cutter from a piece of mild steel.
here's a link to a fairly recent post that gives the idea.
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/rotary-broach.30404/

the cutter may be the hardest/most time consuming part to form.
mild steel should be sufficient for a 1 off in aluminum.
i hope the idea is useful.
Click to expand...


I like Mike's (Ulma Doctor) suggestion - a rotary broach is exactly what I would use.

One could argue that it would be WAY overkill for a one-off part - but once the tool is made, it's there for future use, all that's required is to make a new broach for each new application and that's a comparatively simple task once the entire tool has been made.

Here's one that I made, it's not any better than the broach that Mike posted but I did include a drawing for it:

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/a-simple-compact-rotary-broach.33032/

Another thought - plastic might not be a good first choice for continuous outdoor exposure. UV radiation breaks down the characteristics of most plastic compositions fairly quickly, as I recall. Unless the material is specifically specified to be resistant to UV, aluminum might be a better solution :)
 
Fabrickator said:
I would make a new handle with a round hole big enough to fit over the spline shaft. Then I would drill a cross hole and pin it. Although, the mating surfaces look really short. Maybe instead, drill and tap a hole down the middle of the shaft and screw the handle on.
Click to expand...

Fabrickator's idea sounds like the best idea I have read so far. and drill two or three set screw holes to lock into the shaft splines.
 
Paint to match the switch box? A rain-tight switch handle would be UV resistant and last a long time.
You could mold, drill and file to fit. I think you could file to shape faster than making a special cutter. A rotary table will help with the layout. Measure the turns or degrees between splines as you move the proper size bit into the spline notch and repeat on the new handle. File the drilled holes square after you drill the center hole out.
 
Harvey: Order youi a 2 pound kit of DMR503 from Dynamold and make a copy of the shaft head, You can then use that to make a plug for the head and create a silicone mold for the handle and cast your own using UV stabilized resin.
 
JB weld a simple UVv resistant pipe sleeve over the handle or machine out a dedicated channel & fix it with JB weld .

Those handles are long so you can easily open the cabinet or turn things off & made of electrical grade plastic to reduce the chances of you getting electrocuted .

Don't use aluminium handles on power kill switches for you may get far more of a shock that you bargained for .
 
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