How do I indicate in something SQUARE?

It is possible to check a 1/2/3 or 2/4/6 block for squareness. The sum of the four included angles are equal to exactly 360º. A squareness indicator as used by TOT referenced in post #4 above normally has to be zeroed with a known good reference square.
Another similar approach, if you have two matching size angle plates, you can check them against each other on a surface plate to see that they add to 180. Then check both of them using a squareness indicator to see if they are both equal. If both conditions are true to within whatever tolerance you use for your checks, than your angle plates are 90.
 
Kieth Rucker just did a video on this subject, FYI.
Same Windy Hill square too.
He's the one I was talking about... he had one of those magic-already-square-blocks to bolt it to :) I ended up using my sine-plate , indicated it at 90 degrees, then used the side of it as my reference (after a few false-starts), and it ended up reasonably square, at least as square as I have the ability to measure.
 
I was thinking about how I would do it. This usually incl a comedy of errors.
I do however have an accurate angle plate scraped in at Richard’s class and my B&S SG.
After milling, I would mount to the angle plate and put it on the mag chuck.
Verify it was clocked properly by either a machinists square or a dial test indicator.
2 cents worth.
 
I was thinking about how I would do it. This usually incl a comedy of errors.
I do however have an accurate angle plate scraped in at Richard’s class and my B&S SG.
After milling, I would mount to the angle plate and put it on the mag chuck.
Verify it was clocked properly by either a machinists square or a dial test indicator.
2 cents worth.
The problem is that you have to get the angle right on 2 axes, right? And the angle plate can only provide 1 of those. I managed to bolt a 1-2-3 block to the side of my 'angle plate' and used it as my other axes of reference, but I was hoping there was some way of figuring out some level of 'true squareness' the way we can for parallelism.
 
When I made my jumbo angle plate, I borrowed a largish cast iron angle plate from my sons employer. They are a highly certified company that almost exclusively does government related work for electric, well they make electric boat parts, hint, hint.
The angle plate that I borrowed would not idicate in untill I put .003 shim under part of it. My angle plate came out square to the mill table and is perfect when it is clamped down. Their angle plate? Not so much, but I needed it to machine mine.
 
The problem is that you have to get the angle right on 2 axes, right? And the angle plate can only provide 1 of those. I managed to bolt a 1-2-3 block to the side of my 'angle plate' and used it as my other axes of reference, but I was hoping there was some way of figuring out some level of 'true squareness' the way we can for parallelism.
I was thinking just like you said but run an indicator in the vertical position as you raise/lower the SG
 
Tom Lipton did a really good video on accurately measuring squareness using a surface plate and some not-too-crazy setups.


Craig
 
I was thinking just like you said but run an indicator in the vertical position as you raise/lower the SG
That was my first thought too, but the 'squareness' of the travel of the spindle on the grinder is realatively unimportant to its operation, so I am/wasnt sure its trust-able.
 
I always love listening to these true/flat/square conversations. There are so many nuances. Almost all start with "find a true flat surface you can trust", and work from there. I pity the poor fellah, back over a hundred years ago, who had to achieve this without the benefit of modern tools (and ultra-high quality references). What shop tools he used, had far less precise bearings in the head of his equipment. I suspect there was a lot of hand working of the metal after the last machine tool took it's final pass.
 
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