How do I cut this slot?

[mmcmdl]

I have the full sets of R8 arbors but personally don't use them unless using large diameter cutters . I'll get a pic on here to show you what I use for the smaller slitters . They are simple to make if you chose to do so . .090 is a small cutter , maybe 2" diameter , no need for the R8 arbor .

 

[jwmelvin]

Making an arbor isn’t bad, though mine has just a little too much diametrical clearance.

 

[finsruskw]

That looks doable!
Thanks a bunch, I sure appreciate all the help you fellows give on this forum.
I'll have to get some blades ordered I guess.

 

[mmcmdl]

Take you 10 minutes to make an arbor . My home made arbors are MIA somewhere in the mix , but here . I think you'll get the point . Just turn up a scrap piece of aluminum for holding in a collet . Flip it , turn a spud .0005 under your blade bore and run a tap into that end . Run a bolt into it for holding the blade . You can use a lock washer if you want but not really needed . Just cut so the blade will be locking up and not un-screwing . The reason I don't really like these types are all the overhang under the cutter . Sometimes clearance is an issue .

 

[benmychree]

You can buy a 3/32 slitting saw and take the cut to full depth in one cut, that would save breaking a passel of end mills..

 

[Aukai]

NOS 1" arbor hole?

 

[mmcmdl]

Good gawd .......................................another wagging tongue . You ever sleep ? I just moved some cutting fluid bottles to a staging point .

 

[finsruskw]

Going with this plan I found on an older thread.
Found a chunk of CRS just about the right length and have the 3/4" end turned and polished already.

https://www.hobby-machinist.com/attachments/1510265658402-png.246364/

 

[finsruskw]

Going with this plan I found on an older thread.

Thanks Paul H.!!

Found a chunk of CRS just about the right length and have the 3/4" end turned and polished already.

https://www.hobby-machinist.com/attachments/1510265658402-png.246364/

 

[Winegrower]

I made a few arbors and bought a few. Here ‘s the sum total of what I figured out about arbors.

1). For absolute minimum runout, do all the turning in one lathe setup. Don’t flip the part.
2). The arbor body should be as small as possible and still be a stop for the blade. Any bigger diameter reduces the depth of cut you can make.
3). Keep the screw, nut, cap, however you keep the blade on, as shallow in Z height as possible. Bigger keeps you from cutting close to a perpendicular surface…like a step or such.
4). Make the shaft as long as feasible. This minimizes interference between the quill and part, for example when cutting off a fairly long piece with a smaller diameter saw blade.

If there’s more, please add on?