Hot Hot Is Too Hot...

Cleaned it all well, greased it heavily, reassembled the old parts, and kept pumping in the grease every 5 minutes or so as I worked...aside from having to stop every 5-10 minutes to wipe the drips off before they went flying, it worked. The bearing was only a bit warm and I got a good start on new bearing carriers. Bar profiled, 2 units parted off, and one drilled 1/4" for a pilot. Tonight's goal is getting both drilled to 3/4", switching to the 4 jaw, and starting the boring to size. Bearings and shaft due in tomorrow afternoon. It would be nice to have this ready to assemble by that time!
 
cdhknives said:
Got them. Nice! Thanks! I really NEED this now, see next message:
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The bearing surfaces for the needle rollers is usually a precision one both on the shaft and the housing the needles should also be a really good fit . The carrier cage should have no oval holes or over sized ones & very little end float along the needles length

I'm running several scenarios through my mind to sort out my well worn ( no lubrication in times past ??) top pulley cross shaft & both of the phosphor bronze bearings which get oiled at the start of every session of work and several times in between start and end of a job .

I'm just thinking out loud here , anyone can come in & make suggestions that may improve things .

As I don't have a mill , just an ancient lathe and a small well worn drill press I'm beginning to believe I'll go for buying some drill rod of the correct size for the shaft as it saves trying to turn anything accurately over any decent length .( mine is about 19 inches long )
Then make a set of two identical simple steel carrier tubes ( using some tube I already have perhaps if I'm lucky ) to take the new sealed ball bearing outer bearing size .

Perhaps locate the shaft with circlips either side of the bearings and also locate the bearings in the carrier tubes with circlips ether side /end of the tubes . If you use four bearings on the shaft (one at each end of each tube ) the radial and end loads will be next to nothing so should allow a fairly thin wall (1/4 " ??? ) around the outer bearing edges , this would negate you having to turn down a pair of big billets of steel . Of course using Locktite to glue the bearings as well in the oil free tubes as well would be a good " belt and braces " solution as well )

Setting the complete carriers & bearing ...
All you need is a slightly shouldered end on all the bolts to locate into a small holes drilled in the tubes as there is not going to be a massive load on the shaft , you could even weld drilled out nuts to the tube & use those for the locating holes or drill and tap the tubes .... Locktite a short head drilled bolt in the holes ( short enough to clear the shaft inside the tubes and use the drilled heads as the locating slots . It would be fairly easy to accurately scribe the diametrical lines where the holes go .
 
WH, were your bearings slip fit or pressed in? I was aiming for a light press fit but only hit that once...the other 3 are tight but slip fits...
 
cdhknives said:
WH, were your bearings slip fit or pressed in? I was aiming for a light press fit but only hit that once...the other 3 are tight but slip fits...
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I was aiming for a light press fit as well and managed fine on three of them but the fourth one just slid in and could be pulled out with your finger. I gave it a light coat of Loctite and put it in and it was pretty much the same as the other three. Been fine for two years now.
WH
 
I'm finally back up and running...thanks for the help guys!

For anyone looking to duplicate my design in the CAD drawing, I had clearance issues with my bearing carrier. I had to grind out flats (love that Coote 2x72 belt grinder!) on the bottom of the carriers...about 1" wide instead of the shown 5/8" width to clear and allow wiggle room. The arms of the jackshaft mount are 3/4" wide and only allow about 1-3/4" diameter parts to be mounted...1-5/8" would be a safe design diameter for the center 1" wide portion of the carrier. I would not turn the center 1" wide overall either, it would get awfully thin near the bearing inner seating lip. Don't go wider overall either. It already required moving the motor over about 1/2" to align the pulleys. Narrower bearings would help, but I used 1/2" bearings due to availability.

Another suprise...there is a 1/8"x1/2" Woodruff key in the middle of the shaft under the 4 step cone pulley. Be prepared to add this key if you are replacing the shaft...mine was beyond realistic salvaging and I had a "Sunday Afternoon Surprise" key to work around. These things never crop up when a tool store is open!

Finally, expect to reuse the collar on the right side. The 2 step pulley will retain the shaft on the left end, but something to retain the shaft on the right end is also needed so the old collar was brought back.
 
cdhknives,

Last September, I wrote that your Serial Number 003825 could have been built 1941. Don't know where my brain was that night, but the first QC models were built in 1947. So yours was probably built around 1949.

On the current subject (Woodruff keys in the countershaft under the 4-step or cone pulley), I assume this means that there is a keyway broached in the pulley and that it is visible from both ends of the pulley? The June, 1966 10F parts list does not show a key. How many other owners who have disassembled their countershafts have found a key here?
 
Correct, there is a keyway visible on both ends of the countershaft 4 step cone pulley. It is 1/8" nominal width, and 1/16" depth. At least a 1/16" drill bit was able to slide under (quickie 'feeler gauge' while assembled to figure out how deep to cut a keyway into my new shaft) but 5/64th was not. Mine is basically now converted to a square key about 3/4" long and 1/8" square in place of the old 1/8"x3/4" Woodruff key. If I get motivated I'll change it back later...shaft material is easy and cheap enough.
 
I found a key when I had removed the shaft etc to clean it up and refit. I never got around to replace the bearings but it was on the short list prior to my selling the lathe.
Pierre
 
wa5cab said:
cdhknives,

On the current subject (Woodruff keys in the countershaft under the 4-step or cone pulley), I assume this means that there is a keyway broached in the pulley and that it is visible from both ends of the pulley? The June, 1966 10F parts list does not show a key. How many other owners who have disassembled their countershafts have found a key here?
Click to expand...

I have four countershaft assembly's and they all have keyways. The only parts diagram I have that shows it is the "Atlas Lathe 12 3986 12x36 Bench.pdf" which appears to be a Clausing printing.

HWF
 
Harold,

Yes, all of the part manuals for the so-called Commercial 12" models show a #3 Woodruff key for the cone pulley. But the two pulleys on the Commercial countershaft assembly are both cantilevered with the countershaft bracket between them. With the early 12" countershaft assembly, it would be impossible to have a key in the cone pulley unless you assembled the shaft with key into the pulley with the pulley held between the bracket arms and then pressed in the bushings. Then it would be impossible to non-destructively disassemble. With the 9" and 10" countershaft assemblies, you can remove the spindle, pulleys and bearings from the hanger, remove the right hand bearing, and slide the pulley off the end of the spindle, leaving the key standing proud. Are all four of the countershaft assemblies that you have for 10"?

One other thing that I ran into - Machinery's Handbook, 21st Edition, Revised, only lists ANSI Standard Woodruff Keys (and British Standard). These have three or four digit numbers. Various Atlas parts lists show #3, #5 and #15 Woodruff Keys (and probably others). Does anyone have a chart showing the dimensions of Woodruff Keys with one and two digit numbers?
 
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