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Hopkins and Allen 932 32 rimfire
- Thread starter Les B
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Tom Griffin
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Les,
That's an interesting design. Differences I see between it and the favorite is the leaf mainspring instead of a coil and the design of the falling block. It also doesn't appear that it puts the hammer at half cock when the lever is cycled, unless I'm missing something.
Tom
That's an interesting design. Differences I see between it and the favorite is the leaf mainspring instead of a coil and the design of the falling block. It also doesn't appear that it puts the hammer at half cock when the lever is cycled, unless I'm missing something.
Tom
Tom,
The hammer falls on the firing pin from the full cocked position. Next it rebounds about .187 which is enough for the safety notch on the upper part of the hammer to engage if you try to push the hammer forward without cocking. The hammer never moves from the safe position again until you cock the hammer back. The trick is in the shape of the spring and the engagement part on the hammer. It is an auto safe action. The upper notch doesn't show up very much in the picture. Once the hammer falls it doesn't move when the lever opens and ejects the case.
I had some high speed steel from a joiner blade .062 thick. I had to make an extention for the tip of the trigger which had broken off. The high temp silver solder will hold very well for this type of repair and the tip is hard enough as it will hold a good edge for a trigger. This tip is about 7/16 in long and fits with a square bottom notch into the face of the trigger. A little grinding with a diamond wheel to get the correct fit to hammer and smooth up with stones for a good pull. This type of repair has been used for years without any problems. I may make a new trigger some day when I get some .250 tool steel. The springs are too far forward in the picture. They should be at the rear of this area to operate. I didn't see this in time to change it at this time.
The hammer falls on the firing pin from the full cocked position. Next it rebounds about .187 which is enough for the safety notch on the upper part of the hammer to engage if you try to push the hammer forward without cocking. The hammer never moves from the safe position again until you cock the hammer back. The trick is in the shape of the spring and the engagement part on the hammer. It is an auto safe action. The upper notch doesn't show up very much in the picture. Once the hammer falls it doesn't move when the lever opens and ejects the case.
I had some high speed steel from a joiner blade .062 thick. I had to make an extention for the tip of the trigger which had broken off. The high temp silver solder will hold very well for this type of repair and the tip is hard enough as it will hold a good edge for a trigger. This tip is about 7/16 in long and fits with a square bottom notch into the face of the trigger. A little grinding with a diamond wheel to get the correct fit to hammer and smooth up with stones for a good pull. This type of repair has been used for years without any problems. I may make a new trigger some day when I get some .250 tool steel. The springs are too far forward in the picture. They should be at the rear of this area to operate. I didn't see this in time to change it at this time.
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Tom Griffin
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Ok, I see it. The mainspring catches the hammer in sort of a ready position (.187 off the firing pin), but not so firmly that its inertia can't carry it on to the firing pin from full cock. Then the half cock notch in the hammer keeps it from being pushed against the firing pin if dropped or bumped. I like it.
Tom
Tom
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- Sep 3, 2012
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Les B I collect pictures of the American made firearms that I like a bit..I saved those interior view pictures..A capable fellow could build that firearm just from those pictures if he cared to..Good clear pictures.Thanks........
I wonder-- Does the breechblock bear entirely on the square shoulders and no part of the round rear portion of the breechblock bears against the receiver?
I wonder-- Does the breechblock bear entirely on the square shoulders and no part of the round rear portion of the breechblock bears against the receiver?
Tom,
I see in another post that you have a H&A 410 shotgun. Is this the same basic action as the 932? I have seen shotguns with the dropping block action. I also think I have seen some break over single shots, but never seen a 410 ga. H&R made some in the break over actions in 410.
Les
I see in another post that you have a H&A 410 shotgun. Is this the same basic action as the 932? I have seen shotguns with the dropping block action. I also think I have seen some break over single shots, but never seen a 410 ga. H&R made some in the break over actions in 410.
Les
Alphawolf45,
The breech block fits the full length of the flats into the reciever. No part of the round section will touch in the locked position. The width of the block is .745 and the locking area is about .120 in. This action could be made out of 4140. I will make up a PDF file of dimensions which would help in making the action. The PDF write up will not take as much space as a normal write up and you can enlarge the pictures to see more details. The pits and dents are all over this action. I don't plan to remove enough metal to clear this up.
Les
The breech block fits the full length of the flats into the reciever. No part of the round section will touch in the locked position. The width of the block is .745 and the locking area is about .120 in. This action could be made out of 4140. I will make up a PDF file of dimensions which would help in making the action. The PDF write up will not take as much space as a normal write up and you can enlarge the pictures to see more details. The pits and dents are all over this action. I don't plan to remove enough metal to clear this up.
Les
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Tom Griffin
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Les,
It is a break over single shot.
It's actually my Mom's gun. I've been trying to talk her out of it for years and I think she's finally softening a bit. She's had it since she was a kid and it's the gun I took my first pheasant with.
Tom
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- Jan 23, 2015
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I just recently acquired a H&A 932, however, it is missing the extractor. Seems like many of them out there are. I was hoping someone had the specs on one (measurements) so I can try and duplicate one or even a source that may have one. It'd be great if I could find a template also. Thanks.
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I do have the dimensions of most of the parts. However I have not been too active lately. I will try to write up a short PDF file and post for all to see. Send me a PM and I will try to answer your questions. It will be awhile before I get back to you.
Les
Les
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