Honey, where's my four-step pulley??

[Dabbler]

With aluminum/steel, make sure that you have a good fit and use silver anti-seize when assembling. After 30 years they will still come apart easily. (you already know how I know)

 

[Janderso]

I recently rebuilt a 100 year old drill press. It was missing the motor and five sheave pulley.
I was surprised it was so easy to find a 5/8” ID, perfect fit pulley. It was cast iron. Paid $92 for it. Ouch.

 

[Mandy Baxter]

With aluminum/steel, make sure that you have a good fit and use silver anti-seize when assembling. After 30 years they will still come apart easily. (you already know how I know)

Thanks for the pointer, Dabbler. OK, so let me know if I've generally got this right. My layman's read of Mr. Google's offerings on anti-seize compounds is --

The metallic contents in an anti-seize compound serve as a cathode (steal electrons) or as an anode (give electrons) in a galvanic reaction, depending on the metals in the compound and the metals of the components involved. The reactions result in a thin film of corroded metals on one or possibly multiple mating metal components. The film then acts as an insulating barrier between the the dissimilar metals of the mating parts. The grease aspect of the compound serves as a medium for the suspended metals, and also as a means of preventing entry of electrolytes, such as water moisture, into the mated surfaces.

In this case of an aluminum pulley on an iron (Fe) spindle, the copper (Cu) in "silver" compound is to the right of iron (Fe) on the periodic table. So it reacts as an anode for the iron and also as a cathode for the aluminum (Al). The aluminum bits in the compound are even further to the right from Fe, so it also reacts (as an anode) to the iron (the cathode).

 

[jpackard56]

Thanks for the pointer, Dabbler. OK, so let me know if I've generally got this right. My layman's read of Mr. Google's offerings on anti-seize compounds is --

The metallic contents in an anti-seize compound serve as a cathode (steal electrons) or as an anode (give electrons) in a galvanic reaction, depending on the metals in the compound and the metals of the components involved. The reactions result in a thin film of corroded metals on one or possibly multiple mating metal components. The film then acts as an insulating barrier between the the dissimilar metals of the mating parts. The grease aspect of the compound serves as a medium for the suspended metals, and also as a means of preventing entry of electrolytes, such as water moisture, into the mated surfaces.

In this case of an aluminum pulley on an iron (Fe) spindle, the copper (Cu) in "silver" compound is to the right of iron (Fe) on the periodic table. So it reacts as an anode for the iron and also as a cathode for the aluminum (Al). The aluminum bits in the compound are even further to the right from Fe, so it also reacts (as an anode) to the iron (the cathode).

Layman's terms : Anti-sieze compound from a reputable source "it works ! "

 

[mmcmdl]

I have a few of these pulleys down the basement headed for the landfill . I'll see what I can come up with .

 

[Mandy Baxter]

I have a few of these pulleys down the basement headed for the landfill . I'll see what I can come up with .

Well, to be a picky beggar --
* 5/8" bore, 3/16" keyway,
* set screw in the largest or second largest groove. (The motor shaft is short for the other two grooves.)
* Nice would be a smallest step below 2".

 

[Dabbler]

@Mandy Baxter The primary effect of silver anti-sieze after many years is that the oxides that form from the electrolysis seem to favour monoxides, which have a smaller granual size and shear easier.

Copper anti-seize seems to rely more on shear of the copper granules, but I don't have enough long-term experience to speak to copper anti-sieze.

 

[graham-xrf]

Yes, I'll probably go with the aluminum one I've found. I'm just concerned about galvanic corrosion, from mixing dissimilar metals. The two original pulleys are aluminum, but they're on greased bearings. The pulley for the motor spindle has to be in direct contact, though. (I've already got a couple "examples" of galvanized things in my life now I'd have to destroy to get them apart.)

You can pretty much interfere with the aluminium oxide build-up against the steel shaft by making it "dirty" with "copper-ease" or similar anti-sieze compound. Enough grease in there, and deliberately taking it off occasionally also works.

Related, for military kit aluminium covers needing (stainless) steel cap screws, the answer was to use heli-coils, and let the aluminium / steel interface corrode and seize up until it self-limited. The heli-coil would be in there forever, but the cap screw would never seize up. The equivalent for a pulley would be to bore out and fit a bushing with loctite. The bushing could be anything that would never rot up onto the shaft.