Homemade arbors....FUN FUN FUN

I am doff when it comes to maths. I was reading a practical machinest thread about tapers. The guy did the maths but made some elementry error. I just could not understand it. I dont know what minutes ,seconds and radians are,
So I would like to know if there is a correct way to do this.I once had a well made homemade sine bar ,case hardened and ground but it was stolen. So ,without bluffing myself ,how would one set up the compound to cut an iso 40 taper when you are clueless in math.Also it seems that some good thought process is needed here as one runs out of options on how to hold your workpiece and keep deadnuts contricity.
What would be the logical steps for making an iso 40 arbor for a thirteen mm chuck.
Are you happy with the accuracy and feel of that keyless chuck and where and how much did it cost?Looks like your lathe gives a real good finish .What inserts do you use.?
 
Hallo Plunger. You're full of questions this morning :eek:.
1-Degrees minutes seconds.
If your arbor have a taper of 8degr 17'50" you can punch that into you scientific calculater where it says DM'S", punching 8 then the DMS button then17,again DMS and 50,again DMS and then the equal button and that would give the angle,wich in this case would be 8.297degrees. And that answers your 2nd question on how you set set your compound. Another way is if you have a exist iso40 arbor wich you can clamp and set up true,you can run a gauge along the taper until the needle stays on "0". This would be the most effective in my opinion and this goes for your chuck B16 or B18 arbor too. The first method you would have to set up your conpound exactly using a test indicator and your tailstock. Joe Picsyncski explains it very well on how to do this. Here is that link.
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On the workpiece holding question I would say do the iso side first but machine only to about 1 or 2mm before size and do not taper yet,do the sholder as well so you can clamp on it later,also not final size. Then turn it around, set it up and do your chuck side. Turn the it around,set up again, and by taking light passes,do the taper. Remember to set ypur compound before you clamp the arbor if you are going to use the arbor clocking method. You can also do this by making iso40 side semi finished and the chuck side taper finnished,put your chuck on and clamp a piece of 13mm toolsteel in the lathe chuck and clock it. Then clamp your drill chuck and arbor on that and machine in this manner,but this might vibrate if you can not use it by using a tailstock senter.

The chuck is not bad at all and I am happy with it. The total was R400 (+-$27) with postage and shipping was free.
The insers are Corloy WNMG080408 PC9030. Also on ebay for about(+-$55) R800/2 boxes of 10. That is about what it costs for one box here in SA.

I hope I could help and explained it well enough. If ther is someone with more knowledge, they are welcome to chime in. I will add pics of a diagram and the inserts if that can help. But NOW I must get to work.
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