I asked a question facebook abput the issue with my experimental scraper getting blunt it was of a file and two three strokes on a disc brake and went blunt.now i see why use carbide.I started with an old file. It worked on the really soft cast iron of my import lathe. Then I tried scraping a piece of durabar, and found myself sharpening it every 2 or 3 strokes. Shortly after that I purchased an Anderson scraper, and also made one myself from a small piece of carbide brazed to the end of a piece of flat stock with a file handle fitted to the end. Both work great. One cost me about $100, the other cost me about $10. Gotta tell you, carbide stays sharp WAY longer than carbon steel.
Curve so it wont scratch the work and also creates alley when finished.I'm really new to this, so please bear with me. I'm in the process of restore a late model Craftsman 12 and the bed looks pretty bad after getting it home and cleaned up a little. Anyway, started looking into scraping and saw in various places on the web that the blade should be straight with maybe the corners rounded and I've seen some with curved. I see vettebob uses a curved shape. Are there any reason why one might be used ove the other or for maybe a specific purpose. I have no machining experience but would consider myself above average in the mechanically inclined department. Does the curve give you a more aggressive bite?
I have been wondering if a turned or turned and ground disc brake rotor was a good thing to practice scraping. How does it compare to ways and beds for info purposes ? I'm a bit late in life to go to Richard's school but need to get some oil pockets in an old surface grinder .I asked a question facebook abput the issue with my experimental scraper getting blunt it was of a file and two three strokes on a disc brake and went blunt.now i see why use carbide.
But when i scraped on a cast iron vise it was sucessful and no blunt edge.I have been wondering if a turned or turned and ground disc brake rotor was a good thing to practice scraping. How does it compare to ways and beds for info purposes ? I'm a bit late in life to go to Richard's school but need to get some oil pockets in an old surface grinder .
the vise was cooled of properly. the rotor was taken out of the mold to quickly and hardened. i had this problem with my hss blades. my brother made a attachment for our wood to make it a slow speed diamond grinder. with a 600 grit wheel on a old carbide lathe insert grinding the shape was easy and it cuts much better.But when i scraped on a cast iron vise it was sucessful and no blunt edge.
Buy a Biax radius gage for sharpening blades, Mr. King should be able to get you oneRich I am not trying to duplicate Biax blades. I just wanted to make sure any that I make I can later use in a Biax scraper. I'm sorry if it came off like I want to duplicate them. I will just silver solder the carbide directly to the shank :allgood:Bob