HOME MADE BORING HEAD--with 10 pictures

Thanks for your willingness to share your gifts. You are a great mentor for many!
 
? What dove tail did you use, and do you have the prints on it I would like to make one myself.:thinking:
 
Re: HOME MADE BORING HEAD--with 10 pictures & more info than u will ever need

? What dove tail did you use, and do you have the prints on it I would like to make one myself.:thinking:[/QUOTE-----

the ''link'' to the prints can be found at beginning of my blog see entry # 1 . the dovetail cutter was bought from enco tools -part ## 367--0060 . cost is $$ 18.67 . it is hi speed steel. the steel body of boring head was made of 12 L 14 steel. when i cut the dove tail in the steel i used a ''KOOLMISTER '' AND SPRAYED AIR /WATER mix through entire cut. same procedure when cutting brass ''gib''. cutters as we all know are $$$-soooo buy a koolmister they are really GREAT. THEY WILL FLUSH THE CHIPS out ahead of cutter teeth and they also cool cutting bits and save u $$$$. i cringed when i saw price but really they are worth price of admission. i do not have flood cooling on bp. mill and really do not need it. mister will do the job just fine. now u ask ????
how deep of a cut will i make with ''dovetail cutter''?? when's it gonna break?? --wellll- the deepest cut i made in either the steel or brass was .015 deep.remember i flushed out cut with ''koolmister'' i just gritted my teeth and guessed ---u only gonna buy 1 cutter -and sure don't wanna brake the mother. next ?? how we gonna hold the brass when we cut the ''gib'' ??

well this took a little more work---but it is really ez and a lot of fun to make a ''FIXTURING PLATE''

that u can clamp in ur milling vise -SEE DADOS CUT IN BOTTOM OF PLATE TO INDEX IN VISE JAWS--and then u can use over and over forever . i will post pictures of what i built here --but be sure to go to u-tube to OX--TOOLS --and watch his videos--thats where i got ideas for this thing i made .really ez to make and worked like ''charm''-- the real reason i did not photograph this when i made it was because it was a ''work in progress'' and i did not know if it would work.lol- see attached photos below. note--those little round spacers should be lets say 1/32 to 1/16 inches THICKER, than the metal which u r milling that particular day. therefore the clamping arms, when tite , are not ''level'' with the fixturing plate and stuff does not ''move'' when milled or machined. pretty simple tool --works great and ez to to build. now for the pics. hope this helps someone. re steve in mt.

FXP1.JPG FXP2.JPG FXP3.JPG FXP4.JPG FXP5.JPG
 
Oh I see it after I made the comment, Thanks for all the helpful info it goes a long way.
 
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