Help with compound assembly issue

How did you resolve the problem? Just curious. In reviewing your picture and a parts diagram for your lathe (which is different from mine) this is how I would assemble the parts. The lead screw would go through the face plate. Then I would put the washer on. Then I would screw the sleeve/nut onto the lead screw. Don't know how thick your washer is but there appears to be an indent (maybe wrong term) on the head of the sleeve/nut that the washer may fit into. Then the dial which should slip over the sleeve/nut. Next the knurled washer would be screwed onto the sleeve/nut. Then the serrated lock washer. Then the keyed handle and finally the nut. Tightening the final nut would force the handle against the serrated lock washer which would then lock the sleeve/nut in place on the lead screw. Don't know if this is the correct order of parts. Just my best guess.
 
Mickri, with one exception you are correct. The washer goes on the threaded nut before the dial, otherwise the back of the threaded nut would not stick out far enough from the dial to ride against the face-plate. The large end of the threaded nut has a smaller raised washer-like surface. The issue I was having appeared to be that as I turned the assembly clockwise it was continuing the thread itself toward the face plate and it was locking up. On reality I just had the compound all the way in so it couldn't move any further. Once I had just the threaded nut on by itself I could see it wasn't moving and what was really happening.
 
Glad to hear the you got it figured out.
 
DiscoDan et al.

I just reviewed all of the parts lists that we have and found them to all be wrong. This includes the cross feed screw assembly as well. The parts used are the same on both, except for the cranks and the plate that attaches to the compound slide or the what's called a bearing that screws into the carriage. The exploded view parts drawing shows the dial as first onto the screw and then the shouldered bushing. The bushing should be first and then the dial.

The final version is a definite improvement. If I had one of the early version 1/2" bed lathes, I would buy the parts and convert it.
 
That looks like a 10”. I thought the 12” was 1” higher at the toolpost area.
 
pdentrem, that is OK with me because I think that extra inch would render my bxa too tall.
 
Yeah, kinda strange that they never fixed the error. However, aside from what sounds like excessive wear on the inner face of the dial, the compound itself is significantly better than the one on the 10” or 3/8” bed 12”. I definitely would not recommend trying to change back to one of those. What I would recommend doing is acquiring just the later version parts that go onto the compound feed screw and the cross feed screw. With those parts and a little care, you can reduce the feed screw thrust bearing assembly end float to almost zero. Then all that you have to deal with is the end float between the screw and brass nut. And you can zero the dial by simply loosening the knurled head thumb screw, turning the dial around to zero, and re-tightening the screw. No muss, no fuss.



Robert Downs
 
Robert, do you have a model number in mind? Looking on Vintage Machinery there is a 101.28990 that is newer and has different hardware than mine and similar to the older models. There is also 101.28900/201.28910 that has the same as 101.28990.
 
Yeah, kinda strange that they never fixed the error. However, aside from what sounds like excessive wear on the inner face of the dial and on the plate that bolts to the rear of the compound slide, the compound itself is significantly better than the one on the 10” or 3/8” bed 12”. I definitely would not recommend trying to change back to one of those. What I would recommend doing is acquiring just the later version parts that go onto the compound feed screw and the cross feed screw. You will then have the final version of the carriage assembly, which is the best one that Atlas ever made. With those parts and a little care, you can reduce the feed screw thrust bearing assembly end float to almost zero. Then all that you have to deal with is the end float between the screw and brass nut. And you can zero the dial by simply loosening the knurled head thumb screw, turning the dial around to zero, and re-tightening the screw. No wrenches required.



The other improvements made in the final version are the lever operated power cross feed (which after drilling and tapping two holes in the apron, is retrofitable to the earlier version that you have). And a slip clutch and non-frangible right lead screw bearing, both also retrofitable.

Also, it's just my opinion, but I think that the AXA is a much better fit for the Atlas 12" than the BXA. And 3/8" square cutter holders and inserts are less expensive than
 
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