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Help With Burke #4
- Thread starter Glenn Brooks
- Start date
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2014
- Messages
- 851
Thanks Mark and Dghericke. Your suggestions and comments, and the drawing are very useful. I'll make up the handle to lock the gibs. Actually the handle that locks the support arm fits the table gib nuts, so it will be a good pattern. I do have the shaft that connects to the machine spindle. It's very hard to align and seat properly - the eccentric ring is a bit sticky and doesn't adjust well. So gave up last night after half hour messing with it. Still need to figure this out...
The paint came out well and the machine itself seems tight and smooth on all the machined surfaces. I've got a little clashing noise from the vertical leadscrew where the bevel gear linked to the handwheel turns. But it operates smoothly so will try loading it with a bit of lubriplate today - see if that helps it some.
Tried to press the spindle out of the head last night. Shouldn't have messed with it. Only succeeded in pushing the threaded bushing containing the two lock nuts on the top end of the unit into the casting. Stupid.
Now wondering how to extract it. Do you guys have any idea how to pull the shaft and bearings??
Thanks again for your assistance. Looking forward to learning how to operate this thing.
Glenn
The paint came out well and the machine itself seems tight and smooth on all the machined surfaces. I've got a little clashing noise from the vertical leadscrew where the bevel gear linked to the handwheel turns. But it operates smoothly so will try loading it with a bit of lubriplate today - see if that helps it some.
Tried to press the spindle out of the head last night. Shouldn't have messed with it. Only succeeded in pushing the threaded bushing containing the two lock nuts on the top end of the unit into the casting. Stupid.
Now wondering how to extract it. Do you guys have any idea how to pull the shaft and bearings??
Thanks again for your assistance. Looking forward to learning how to operate this thing.
Glenn
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2011
- Messages
- 191
Glenn,
Which head are you talking about ? The Vertical attachment ? The double lock nuts on the vertical attachment are for limited adjustment of the pinion gear to mesh with the bronze spiral gear. The only thing on the vertical attachment is a shaft, a pinion and upper and lower bearings . There is also an adjusting screw on the front of the unit for adjusting the bronze spirial gear.If it was me I would loosen the 2 lock nuts on the spindle shaft and adjust the shaft back to center for the meshing of the gears so you can turn
the driving arbor by hand.
let me know how you make out, incidentally the head is universal in that it can be used in right hand mode or left hand mode for tilting to a set tool at what ever degree is needed
up to 90 degrees.
If I can be of more help will be happy to .
Regards
dgehricke
Which head are you talking about ? The Vertical attachment ? The double lock nuts on the vertical attachment are for limited adjustment of the pinion gear to mesh with the bronze spiral gear. The only thing on the vertical attachment is a shaft, a pinion and upper and lower bearings . There is also an adjusting screw on the front of the unit for adjusting the bronze spirial gear.If it was me I would loosen the 2 lock nuts on the spindle shaft and adjust the shaft back to center for the meshing of the gears so you can turn
the driving arbor by hand.
let me know how you make out, incidentally the head is universal in that it can be used in right hand mode or left hand mode for tilting to a set tool at what ever degree is needed
up to 90 degrees.
If I can be of more help will be happy to .
Regards
dgehricke
I'm not sure what you did, but you should not need to remove the spindle from the vertical head if that is what you were trying to do. The gear inside floats to line up the shaft that goes through and into the machine spindle. It sounds as though ( if I understand) you need to put the shaft through the vertical head and see if it rotates smoothly with little to no backlash. If needed the two lock nuts on top of the vertical head spindle can be adjusted a little. Do NOT try to press that spindle out. ( the head can be disassembled without a press). If you mess that head casting up , it is irreplaceable. The last vertical head I saw ( and they are as rare as unicorn poop) sold for $600.
Edit:
The shaft will come out if you remove the two lock nuts. The shaft will go down through the bearings. Then the top bearing can be removed and also the bottom one if it didn't come out with the spindle. Do not disassemble the head unless you need to for some reason. The spindle also goes through the worm gear inside.
Edit:
The shaft will come out if you remove the two lock nuts. The shaft will go down through the bearings. Then the top bearing can be removed and also the bottom one if it didn't come out with the spindle. Do not disassemble the head unless you need to for some reason. The spindle also goes through the worm gear inside.
Last edited by a moderator:
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2011
- Messages
- 191
Glenn,
Here is some info on how to set up the Vertical attachment GOOD INFO its a PDF the other is using the vertical head and horizontal jobs also a good article, it opens in Open Office from Apache if your on a Mac if Windows is your system it should open in any Microsoft Office software.
Later
dgehricke
Here is some info on how to set up the Vertical attachment GOOD INFO its a PDF the other is using the vertical head and horizontal jobs also a good article, it opens in Open Office from Apache if your on a Mac if Windows is your system it should open in any Microsoft Office software.
Later
dgehricke
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2014
- Messages
- 851
Thanks guys. I got the two lock nuts back in position on the shaft (vertical head) and adjusted the bearings , which had moved an inch or less out of the casting So all ok now on that front. I had no idea what the two lock nuts actually did - so good to know they allow minor gear alignment. Also fitted a collet and located the vertical head draw bar. Works like a charm.
Mark, Wayne sent me a parts list and drawing of the vertical head - so Iam good on that item... Still very ackward to install - I need to make up a spanner wrench to pull the eccentric around the shaft to adjust alignment. That and cleaning up the overarm support shaft so the eccentric doesn't bind might make it move easier.
Didn't break anything, machine still all original. A good day all in all.
Regards
Glenn
Mark, Wayne sent me a parts list and drawing of the vertical head - so Iam good on that item... Still very ackward to install - I need to make up a spanner wrench to pull the eccentric around the shaft to adjust alignment. That and cleaning up the overarm support shaft so the eccentric doesn't bind might make it move easier.
Didn't break anything, machine still all original. A good day all in all.
Regards
Glenn
Good to hear.
The way I install my vertical head is to put the shaft in the head and install it in the spindle. At this point the head is installed in the spindle but the eccentric bushing is out of the plate. I simply rotate the bushing to where it goes in the plate. ( the bolt for the head tilt is slightly loose at this point). Snug everything and rotate the machine spindle by hand. If it turns smoothly , you are good. If there is a tight spot , you adjust the eccentric until it rotates smoothly. This only takes a few minutes.
On my head, that flat ridge running vertically on the head sets the head square when I put a square against it. That is why it is there. Makes quick setup. It should be close if no one messed with the ridge. ( just don't paint that ridge)
The way I install my vertical head is to put the shaft in the head and install it in the spindle. At this point the head is installed in the spindle but the eccentric bushing is out of the plate. I simply rotate the bushing to where it goes in the plate. ( the bolt for the head tilt is slightly loose at this point). Snug everything and rotate the machine spindle by hand. If it turns smoothly , you are good. If there is a tight spot , you adjust the eccentric until it rotates smoothly. This only takes a few minutes.
On my head, that flat ridge running vertically on the head sets the head square when I put a square against it. That is why it is there. Makes quick setup. It should be close if no one messed with the ridge. ( just don't paint that ridge)
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2014
- Messages
- 851
Thanks Mark and dgheriecke, Mark, I will try your method in the morning. I looked through a bunch of collets I got with my OD grinder last year- and found half dozen 3C collets of various sizes mixed in with the tooling - so a bit of a windfall. cleaning them up tonight in evaporust to see what shape they are in, then will grind a tenth or so and polish them up nice. also have a bunch of fairly decent horizontal cutters that came with an old Van Norman 12 that is next on my list to restore, so more than enuf tooling all told to get started with the Burke. Plus I need the Burke to make some parts for the VN.
My last chore is to find some 140 wt gear lube for the motor. Nothing in town today- so probably have to look down in what is left of the old industrial supply neighborhood in downtown Seattle.
BTW, just saw your latest post on your thread about machining your mounting plate for the vert head. really nice looking work.
Thanks for your assistance thus far!
Glenn
My last chore is to find some 140 wt gear lube for the motor. Nothing in town today- so probably have to look down in what is left of the old industrial supply neighborhood in downtown Seattle.
BTW, just saw your latest post on your thread about machining your mounting plate for the vert head. really nice looking work.
Thanks for your assistance thus far!
Glenn