Help fitting new cross slide gib on Grizzly 12x36

You know those new parts are suppose to be fit on the machines. The cross-slide doesn't automatically fit , they are match fit by scraping. I wish I could say transport me down Scotty and I could come and help you. I just checked and your 75 minutes away from my friend Steve Watkins who is a great machinist and really good scraper. He as hosted 4 scraping seminars and wants to host another one in February 2019.

He loves to barter. I bet if you loaded up your lathe we would help you fit everything. You can see some of his info online as he owns "The Beast" a Rockford planner and a shop full of nice machines. You need to besure that the gib is fit right, the cross-slide and saddle fit good and he could scrape or grind as he has a nice surface grinder. PM me and I can give you his email .
Pic's: Steve Watkins and his planer doing a mill table. scraping a small cross-slide, Oil grooves in machine and measuring compound

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seems it would be way easier for me to just remove the top of the saddle and take just that to him. PM me with his info.
 
And that hole on the side of the cross slide is your table lock for the cross slide. NOT a deflection screw for gib. Shouldn’t be touching when fitting the gib. Good luck.
 
I would leave the lock screw loose if I were doing it. I relieve the middle 40% of the gib so it doesn't touch by .001" as a matter of fact. The picture of the gib, (there is another thread on here and I am mixing them up I think...lol.. but it's a Asian machine too). There is no oil groove in the gib, that oil ball is gravity feed and if there is no groove cut into the top to a groove in the gib you are guessing it gets oil. The one picture of the bottom side of the gib is so rough that needs to be smooth. I wonder if the other side that rides on the way is like that? You could just take the saddle to him but before you take it apart set a magnetic base on the bed (on a sheet of paper to protect the bed) and rest a dial indicator on the top of the saddle between the ways and see if that surface is parallel to the bed. Then take a 1 2 3 block and set it on the flat ways, 1" side down and also see if the flats are parallel to bed. That would help in knowing how to scrape the cross-slide.

Now I am going to say something that may seem a bit odd. Those small Asian machines were not built very precision compared to a American or Germany machine. That's why you can use it even when it is obvious its less quality. Many worn out American machines machine's still work. I know a guy who buys the Asian machines to get castings and rebuilds them so he gets a cheap good cutting machine. So Mutt if you have a pro help you fit the ways and gib, assure it has adequate oil grooves and oil paths, scrape oil pockets in the ways and gib. Your machine will end up better then new. If you check You Tube and look up how to set a tapered gib you can see 3 or 4 students of mine using an mag base and indicator setting the gib clearance on mills, but it works the same way on a lathe. you gib and cross slide should have .0005" to .001" shake or movement on both ends. The clearance is for an oil film on the ways. PM sent with Steve's info. Rich

PS: I either wrote the wrong name on google maps last night or you moved. You about 3.5 hours away.
 
Mutt said:
The original 20 year old gib was fine I think, but the cross slide is a poor quality pig iron and is really brittle. When ya tighten the compound after turning it to a different degree and re-tighten the hold down bolts. It screws up the under side. This has happened twice. So when I ordered the 3 cross slide, I ordered a new gib and chunked the old one. Went to install the new one and or course screwed it up. Here's some pics of the new cross slide.

It has oil holes Red is for the half nut for the cross slide, blue for each side of the dovetail, yellow is where the casting generally breaks apart. I try not to over tighten the 2 bolts, but the casting still chips
View attachment 270681
set screw for taking up gib slop in center
View attachment 270682
here is teh slide sitting the way it would installed on the lathe. Gib sticks out about 1 ½" or so
View attachment 270684
small end, flush.
View attachment 270685

So where do I start? Screw in both adjusters half way in their movement and ???
Click to expand...
 
Mutt said:
The original 20 year old gib was fine I think, but the cross slide is a poor quality pig iron and is really brittle. When ya tighten the compound after turning it to a different degree and re-tighten the hold down bolts. It screws up the under side. This has happened twice. So when I ordered the 3 cross slide, I ordered a new gib and chunked the old one. Went to install the new one and or course screwed it up. Here's some pics of the new cross slide.

It has oil holes Red is for the half nut for the cross slide, blue for each side of the dovetail, yellow is where the casting generally breaks apart. I try not to over tighten the 2 bolts, but the casting still chips
View attachment 270681
set screw for taking up gib slop in center
View attachment 270682
here is teh slide sitting the way it would installed on the lathe. Gib sticks out about 1 ½" or so
View attachment 270684
small end, flush.
View attachment 270685
G003G
So where do I start? Screw in both adjusters half way in their movement and ???
Click to expand...
Looking at your pictures of where it is breaking tells me your compound base is not flat. I bought a G4003G about a year ago. When I disassembled it to clean the bottom of the compound looked like it was finished with a angle grinder. Used a fly cutter on my mill then lapped it. If there are any gaps when you tighten the two nuts it will break the cast iron. If the two parts mate properly the cast iron is under a compression load. I dont think that the little tee bolts can generate enough presser to crush the cast iron
 
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