Ohm I doubt a longer one is available. I have reached out to a guy on another forum who machines stuff at a fairly reasonable price to see what he would charge. Depending on his reponse, I may have to revisit alternatives using the short shank.
Ohm I doubt a longer one is available. I have reached out to a guy on another forum who machines stuff at a fairly reasonable price to see what he would charge. Depending on his reponse, I may have to revisit alternatives using the short shank.
OK, so could you guys check my math here?
The stack should look like this:
Back of shank
---
Belleville washer
Washer
Bronze sleeve bearing
AXA boring holder
Bronze sleeve bearing
Washer
Belleville washer
Washer
---
Handle
Is that right? There had been a mention of a thrust bearing, is it worth adding on (or more) in? They don't seem to be that expensive and I would prefer to do it right the first time. If I do add in a thrust bearing, it would go between the washer and the bronze sleeve bearing on the front end, correct?
Once I get the stack right, I have all the specs for the various thicknesses so I'll know the total length I need for the shank and I figure whatever handle I decide to go with can just screw into the tail end of the shank.
Thanks!
@extropic
First up, if the shank is going to be right up against the bronze sleeve bearing, would that be where a thrust bearing should go?
I see a chance for me to learn something. What exactly do you mean by "stops"?
When you talk about preload, I thought that having Belleville washers on both ends would create a tension that would be controlled by tightening the handle against the washer. If I remove the from Belleville but had a thrust bearing, wouldn't there still be tension holding everything together? From what you said, I gather that is incorrect, no?
As for the threading/setscrews/etc. I was planning on figuring that out once I picked a handle. That is relatively easy as it just requires me to put it in the drawing I send to get made.
Got it, no need for the thrust bearing.The back of the boring head mount (arbor) goes right up against the flange of the Oilite bearing (NO BELLEVILLE WASHER in there). The flange of the Oilite bearing is the "thrust bearing" in this case. That's why we chose a flanged Oilite bearing rather than an plain (no flange) Oilite sleeve bearing.
That is the simplest way to go and perfectly adequate for your purposes. Using a ball or needle type thrust bearing will add cost (only a few $$) and complexity. We will need to seal that type of bearing from swarf and other contamination. None of using ball or needle type thrust bearing is difficult but it is unnecessary here. You decide and let me know, so we can converge.
Ok, I understand now. For everything I envision using this for, I do not think I need stops.In reply #4, @mjks included a link to post about a radius turner that he built. His build incorporated stops that are simple to build can be set to limit the rotation of the boring head. Please take a look at the linked post, which is well explained and has many good photos. If, after digesting that post, you still have questions about stops, ask away.
My apologies, I was trying to reconcile my original (incorrect) thinking with what you said. I have the parts you suggested already in my cart at McMaster-Carr and just wanted to make sure I didn't overlook anything before placing the order.I don't understand the question. In reply #16 I thought I explained the parts stack-up and some parts to buy. I did not mention stops in reply #16 but stops (like mjks's) don't change those purchased parts.
In this particular case, I am more concerned with the functionality. My priority is putting my efforts into expanding my skills as it relates to the pen making, this is a side project. I am not averse to spending money on tooling or time on learning new things but, in this case, I feel that the return is just not there. As I understand it, the only skill I am currently lacking for this project would be single point threading the 1 1/2 x 18 threads to attach the boring head. That would require a toolholder plus insert and I am assuming I would need a tap for the tail of the arbor.I'm getting the sense that you don't want to expand your machining skills/tooling beyond what is necessary for pen making. Does that sum it up or would you prefer to do some machining (which may well require the purchase of some tooling) and expand your experience and skills in the construction of the radius turning attachment? In other words, do you want to make something or do you only want to bolt some parts together? The design and the discussion depend on what your intensions are.
Hypothetical: If I can explain a method for you to make your own arbor, rather than have a third party make a new one for you, which would you prefer? Would you be willing to spend the same $$ on tooling rather than paying someone else to make the arbor?
It's the standard PM wedge type AXA qctp.What type of tool post do you have on your lathe? A picture will do.
Got it, no need for the thrust bearing.
Ok, I understand now. For everything I envision using this for, I do not think I need stops.
My apologies, I was trying to reconcile my original (incorrect) thinking with what you said. I have the parts you suggested already in my cart at McMaster-Carr and just wanted to make sure I didn't overlook anything before placing the order.
In this particular case, I am more concerned with the functionality. My priority is putting my efforts into expanding my skills as it relates to the pen making, this is a side project. I am not averse to spending money on tooling or time on learning new things but, in this case, I feel that the return is just not there. As I understand it, the only skill I am currently lacking for this project would be single point threading the 1 1/2 x 18 threads to attach the boring head. That would require a toolholder plus insert and I am assuming I would need a tap for the tail of the arbor.
The person I have contacted told me that, for around $50, he will machine me exactly what I need with whatever threading or other features I ask for. Given that the tooling alone would be about twice that, for this project, I would be perfectly happy understanding the thinking behind the design, sourcing the correct components to make a quality tool, and ending up with something well made and functional.
It's the standard PM wedge type AXA qctp.