Hedwick MV-100 Mill Help!

[shelby grinders]

I just wanted to share my exact motor specifications with everyone. The unit is Baldor Model No. M3554T. I see on the specs that it can be wired for 115v. I actually have an extra Fuji VFD laying around. Could I just wire 110v power directly to the fuji and then wire from the fuji to the 3 poles shown on the first electrical box photo I posted? Should be the three poles to the right. My only concern is the transformer and huge power box someone has installed. Not sure if wiring for 115v would be ok. I could also wire it for 220 through the VFD. I have the power, would just rather not dedicate it if I don't have to. Then again 1.5hp is over the rated wattage for a 115, but I could do a dedicated 20 and that should suffice I think?

 

[Asm109]

Wow this is great. Are the collets the same as a Bridgeport by chance? Will the R8 twist right in there? Also, does your tachometer work?

Mine uses R8 collets. The tach works now. Mine was missing the wheel and o-ring to drive the tach. Finally made the wheel.

 

[shelby grinders]

Mine uses R8 collets. The tach works now. Mine was missing the wheel and o-ring to drive the tach. Finally made the wheel.

That's great news! I do believe mine is missing the same exact thing. Let me go grab a photo of what I have, maybe you can point me in the right direction to get it hooked up again. Thanks so much Asm109!

 

[shelby grinders]

Here are some photos you may be able to help me with Asm! The first one is of the inside of the head that comes off the top. That’s the back of the RPM gauge down there. I'm assuming the RPM gauge somehow connects to the 2nd and 3rd photos somehow. The others I still can’t figure out what they do. There’s a handle that spins with like a choke of sorts that pulls out (the wheel photo) and to the left of it is some sort of clutch/brake. Any idea what those actually do?

 

[Asm109]

You are missing the drive wheel and oring . The tach is driven via friction from the top surface of the timing pulley in photo 4.
If you look close at the surface of that pulley you will probably see a wear mark where the oring ran. Measure the diameter of that wear mark and that will tell you the diameter of oring you need and the diameter of the wheel you will need to fab. Essentially the tach is a 1:1 right angle friction drive.
Look at the cover the tach is mounted in. There are 3 or four tapped holes for mounting screws and also 3 or 4 set screws and jam nuts. You adjust the height of the set screws to control the squish on the oring so the tach drives without overloading the shaft on the tach. Its a bit fiddly.

All your other pictures are focused on the power quill feed. You are missing a timing belt that gets power from the quill.

The red handle in pics 2 and 3 adjusts the feed rate from .001 in/rev- 0.006 in/rev. It is analog and infinite resolution.
I am attaching a brochure that came with my mill.
I have an instruction sheet but the file is too large to attach. I will try to place it in the downloads section. Do a search on my user name.
File is a pdf called Hedwick MV100 diagrams

 

[shelby grinders]

You are missing the drive wheel and oring . The tach is driven via friction from the top surface of the timing pulley in photo 4.
If you look close at the surface of that pulley you will probably see a wear mark where the oring ran. Measure the diameter of that wear mark and that will tell you the diameter of oring you need and the diameter of the wheel you will need to fab. Essentially the tach is a 1:1 right angle friction drive.
Look at the cover the tach is mounted in. There are 3 or four tapped holes for mounting screws and also 3 or 4 set screws and jam nuts. You adjust the height of the set screws to control the squish on the oring so the tach drives without overloading the shaft on the tach. Its a bit fiddly.

All your other pictures are focused on the power quill feed. You are missing a timing belt that gets power from the quill.

The red handle in pics 2 and 3 adjusts the feed rate from .001 in/rev- 0.006 in/rev. It is analog and infinite resolution.
I am attaching a brochure that came with my mill.
I have an instruction sheet but the file is too large to attach. I will try to place it in the downloads section. Do a search on my user name.
File is a pdf called Hedwick MV100 diagrams

Oh man, that's not very good news about the missing timing belt. Is that crucial Asm? Keep in mind that photo is on the left side of the machine, not the right. The gearing on the right that changes from low to high is working. Just want to make sure you know what you're looking at. Ok I will try to find your file, I'm pretty new here. I can't thank you enough for your help!

 

[Asm109]

The missing timing belt provides power to the power quill down feed. Great if you want to use a boring head in the mill but not essential.
I cannot upload anything because I am not a paying member.
If you PM me your email address I will send you the diagrams. It explains what all the knobs and levers do and what the guts of the machine look like.

 

[GTexas]

@shelby grinders The timing belt for the power quill down feed is a 150L050. They are widely available. Did you get your tach fixed? I have to repair mine, but I can't get it out of the head cover. Any ideas?

 

[GTexas]

I got the tach out. The wheel with the O-ring is fixed to the shaft with two sets of tiny set screws (1/16 hex key drive size). However there are two of these set screws in each hole and it took a while to figure out that after removing the first one there is another one below. Then the wheel comes off the shaft, the hex nuts at the U clamp can be taken off and the tach removed from the front of the housing.