Heavy duty tool chest for lathe stand?

IMO The Steel case brand is the one you should look for. They are well made and you can replace the O rings on the drawers to make them slide correctly. They should have the word STEELCASE stamped on the inside sidewall of each drawer.
I have one desk that looks like a Steelcase but is made by Artmetal. It is not of the same quality.
Robert
 
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The phenomenon of cost, of auctions in general, hinges on object names searchers and sellers use. When something gets a popular 'tag' [ie] 'tanker desk' , adding more sets of bidders and probably inflates the price. Value between 'steel desk' and 'tanker desk' identical; but one is trendy!
 
Home Depot is about to have a Spring Black Friday Sale where the Husky tool boxes should be going on sale. I picked up a 46"x24" last year for $250 and then built a 1"x1" tube frame around the tool box.

It was well worth the effort to build a custom lathe stand.
 
Manderioli said:
Home Depot is about to have a Spring Black Friday Sale where the Husky tool boxes should be going on sale. I picked up a 46"x24" last year for $250 and then built a 1"x1" tube frame around the tool box.

It was well worth the effort to build a custom lathe stand.
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Best solution for bench machine, suitable frame around dense storage.
1] Don't make frame perpendicular, invites harmonics.
2] Leave room to extract box whilst full, otherwise moving day gets added headaches.
 
I bought a HF 60" toolbox for the base for my 12" Craftsman Lathe. I took the wheels off and built a low profile subframe with outrigger leveling casters. This dropped the surface about 6 inches to a resonable height. I added a steel surface for the lathe to sit on and a backsplash, it has been a very good stand so far. Very solid with lots of storage.
 
Bamban said:
Could you please help me this statement? I am contemplating on modifying the OEM stand/base on my old 1236 lathe.

Thanks.
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1] Don't make frame perpendicular, invites harmonics.
Like a tuning fork, connected frame members can resonate, audibly or physical movement. Successfully dampened, eliminates [or lowers out of range] ability to vibrate.
Assuming you'll build with square tubing, dampening is achieved by; increasing thickness, decreasing length, filling with oil soaked sand, asymmetric bracing, splay the vertical legs [like triangulating]. That puts one side in compression other gains tension. A tie-rod of all thread can produce same effect. Ever shake a thin sheet of metal? Sounds like thunder until 2 small creases [quilting] are pressed in across corners. A larger sheet gets additional quilting. How about a bell; strike and it rings, stopping when barely touched. . .depending on size of bell!
Or you use a bigger finger. Lol.
 
mickri said:
Get yourself an old metal desk.
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+++++1

When looking for one, I strongly suggest finding one made by "Yawman and Erbe" or " The General Fireproofing Company ", they look the same as others but the level of quality is very high and with heavy gauge frame that are good bases for lathes and other machines if the height is good for you.
The ball bearing slides on the drawers rival older versions of Lista's and Vidmar, you can pack them with tooling. Collectors pay good money for them but they get they get mixed in (lost) all the time with cheap metal desk's and like what others said if you have a strong back and $5 then Bob's your Uncle otherwise it could be found for $700++ in the Gucci retro used furniture store that your daughter likes.

The Yawman and Erbe's especially can command a big price. TIP: Keep an eye out in Craigslist free section, in my area 1 or 2+ a week come up for free. Last pic below is a nice one that just came up for free.

Like earlier posted, take the top off and fill the legs up with sand and oil (or lead shot), it really helps solidify them and reduces vibrations. Blacksmiths do this all time for there anvils and vise post's.

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Bamban said:
Could you please help me this statement? I am contemplating on modifying the OEM stand/base on my old 1236 lathe.

Thanks.
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My recommendation is about cutting and fabricating a frame of tubing [square, rectangular or round].
"Splay" the legs so upper plane is smaller than footprint. At least two pair, say right side and back, should also be braced diagonally. The box form of a heavy desk should dampen fairly well too. It seems like one of those awfully big for a small machine, the back will collect chips or bad storage. A back-stop would fix that and make both sides useful. They are often called 'tanker desks'.
Finally, what ever form the lathe stand takes, provide leveling screws and thin dampening like felt or hard rubber.
Took a look at local craigslist. Right now 15 "heavy steel desk" listings appear. One or two are right variety - rounded corners and means of assembly not readily apparent -. The others are sheet metal panels screwed to 3/4" square vertical tubing legs; the chief stiffening is via the pressed wood top, which ceases once a substantial load is placed. Also, places legs at the corners - the top will bend even easier.
Smaller 'tankers' have the legs outside the drawer sections, the bigger have short legs under the drawer sections that triangulate loads very well.
 
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