Harold Hall simple grinding rest

Yes I did. I also made it to fit my Morse taper #2 collets I already had. It might be tricky working on the sides of long end mill though since I might run out of twist on my wrist pulling it through! I can't use two hand since one is holding the fixture in place. In his videos Harold uses his advanced grinding fixture which has a screw/clamp to hold the fixture in place which is a big plus. If I like the simple rest as much as I think I'm going to I may very well make the advanced one too later on.

I agree from the pictures Harold seems to use stubby cutters.

For the front support I actually made a short one (shorter than Harold's drawings) and then two screw on extensions. I figured that was easier than making two or three individual complete arms. I need a pretty long one if I use the full length of the spindle, but shorter ones are needed for shorter lengths.

Ted
 
Technical Ted said:
All assembled, lapped and tested out. Works great! The operator needs more practice, but the fixture works very well. As with anything, a little experience using a new tool goes a long ways. My initial test was with an end mill I found in the scrap bucket at work years ago that was broken right in half. I figured shorter would be easier for the sides to start with and I had nothing to lose if I made a mistake since it was scrap in the first place. Cut just fine after sharpening even with the grinder's original undressed wheels!

Now, to make the larger flanges for my better grinding wheels (cup and saucer type) and make up some angle cards as suggested by Harold as they will make the angle adjustments/setups much easier. For the first test I used a protractor and eye balled the setups. Then, sharpen a few cutters and use it for a little while before the final mounting of the grinder and steel plates and a few other finishing touches.

It's been a fun project!
Ted


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What are the holes in the spindle and drawbar used for, to pin them together?
 
DHJ said:
What are the holes in the spindle and drawbar used for, to pin them together?
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No, you put something through the aligned holes (I used an allen wrench) to secure the draw bar so you can tighten the socket head cap screw tightly. The socket head cap screw allows you to both tighten and loosen the collet. Harold's drawing calls for a round nut to go on the threaded draw bar, but I actually just machined a shoulder on it. When you turn the socket head cap screw counter clockwise the shoulder hits and pushes the collet out. The cap screw must be tight enough that it doesn't back out while doing this. The draw bar is captive inside the spindle. Works very well!

Ted

End Mill Sharpening Fixture v14.png
 
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Technical Ted said:
No, you put something through the aligned holes (I used an allen wrench) to secure the draw bar so you can tighten the socket head cap screw tightly. The socket head cap screw allows you to both tighten and loosen the collet. Harold's drawing calls for a round nut to go on the threaded draw bar, but I actually just machined a shoulder on it. When you turn the socket head cap screw counter clockwise the shoulder hits and pushes the collet out. The cap screw must be tight enough that it does back out while doing this. The draw bar is captive inside the spindle. Works very well!

Ted

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Thanks Ted.
Got it, done with the spindle, collets and bearing blocks, waiting for cast iron.
 
Just an update: I have made progress on this making the flanges and mounting my better grinding wheels. But, this project went on hold while I started working on my current one.... a new to me mill and a boat load (well actually my pickup loaded full) of some nice machine shop items! Got a really good deal because they had been in storage for over 10 years and they were dirty/rusty and the price reflected that. And he wanted to get rid of the stuff. But, the good news is they are cleaning up nicely! Lots of elbow grease! I now have so many end mills I don't think I'll ever need to use my new sharpener setup!!! :eek:

Here's the mill after I cleaned it up.

Ted

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Technical Ted said:
Just an update: I have made progress on this making the flanges and mounting my better grinding wheels. But, this project went on hold while I started working on my current one.... a new to me mill and a boat load (well actually my pickup loaded full) of some nice machine shop items! Got a really good deal because they had been in storage for over 10 years and they were dirty/rusty and the price reflected that. And he wanted to get rid of the stuff. But, the good news is they are cleaning up nicely! Lots of elbow grease! I now have so many end mills I don't think I'll ever need to use my new sharpener setup!!! :eek:

Here's the mill after I cleaned it up.

Ted

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You suck... Nice pup, how old? Would really like to get mine to stay in the shop with me.
 
I am finishing up making Harold Halls simple grinding rest. It was a great first project on my "new to me" mill. *** Thanks for the inspiration Ted.***
I just wanted to pass on what seems like a deal if any one is going to do the grinder modification.. A seller named hickersonindustries is selling the Type 11 cup grinding wheels on Ebay. Two wheels for $20.00 including shipping. I had been shopping for one but was put off by the price till I found these. I contacted the seller (nice guy) and he said he has all types of wheels if you wanted different grit or type.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Spectrum-B...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I also found a threaded 1" steel knob from from McMaster-Carr to use in place of a plastic ball. It seems to be working well.
Jim
 
Rata222 said:
I am finishing up making Harold Halls simple grinding rest. It was a great first project on my "new to me" mill. *** Thanks for the inspiration Ted.***
I just wanted to pass on what seems like a deal if any one is going to do the grinder modification.. A seller named hickersonindustries is selling the Type 11 cup grinding wheels on Ebay. Two wheels for $20.00 including shipping. I had been shopping for one but was put off by the price till I found these. I contacted the seller (nice guy) and he said he has all types of wheels if you wanted different grit or type.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Spectrum-Bonded-Products-5-3-3-4-x-1-3-4-x-1-1-4-PA60K-Grinding-Cup-Wheel-2pc/112692815673?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I also found a threaded 1" steel knob from from McMaster-Carr to use in place of a plastic ball. It seems to be working well.
Jim
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Thanks for the heads up on the grinding wheels. I have some pretty worn down Norton cup wheels (white) on my grinder now that were changed out at a place I used to work at, but they won't last much longer. For the price I figure they are worth a try! The eBay listing didn't specify, but they appear to be pink aluminum oxide 60 grid wheels??? Hard to say what quality they are, but hey for $20 a pair...

Ted
 
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