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Hukshawn
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Dammit... I don't think my kit is the same.
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- Aug 23, 2014
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I first bought a 1/2" kit from LMS and they fit my mini lathe. Actually tighter than the 7/16" inchers. So if you have a 1/2" kit give it a try.
Roy
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Hukshawn
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Well I did it. I got one. I've got the igaging dro kit as well. What are the things that you guys did to set this thing up? How did you mount the dro? I know I have to take it all apart and clean it. What are some of the things I should look for?
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- Aug 23, 2014
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First clean it. I used odorless mineral spirits and paper towels to get the shipping grease off. Then go over every screw, nut, bolt and check/tighten. Lube everything that moves. After that make all adjustments in the manual get the gibs set as tight as possible while still allowing the table to travel easily. Adjust the handwheels to get minimum backlash. You can't get rid of all of it. Make sure to clean out the spindle taper and firmly seat the drill on its arbor. Tram the spindle and table. Run it at all speeds to make sure everything is working properly and give the bearings a chance to run in a little.
You can look at other dro installations on this forum in the mini lathe and harbor freight forums. Also many by googling. The way I did my readouts is in the photo on post # 3. The y axis scale is under the table on the left side. The x axis scale is behind the table. The Z axis is on the left side of the column. The scales have brackets and you will most likely need to make your own to mount sliding sensor portions. You will will be drilling and taping for mounting screws. I can take some photos of mine if you need them, but you may want to do it some other way. You need to take your time and think it out. You want no bind in the scales and run them parallel to the table. I'll try to find some threads for you to look at.
That's about all I can think of at the moment. Have fun. I'm sure the other members here will come up with many other suggestions. Most know more than me.
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/x2-mini-mill-igauging-dro-install.24844/
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/dros-installed-on-hf-mini-mill.20561/
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/installation-of-igaging-dro-on-a-mini-mill.16794/
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/just-added-my-x-axis-dro-to-my-mini-mill.11371/
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/mini-mill-users-guide-by-littlemachineshop-com.201/
Roy
You can look at other dro installations on this forum in the mini lathe and harbor freight forums. Also many by googling. The way I did my readouts is in the photo on post # 3. The y axis scale is under the table on the left side. The x axis scale is behind the table. The Z axis is on the left side of the column. The scales have brackets and you will most likely need to make your own to mount sliding sensor portions. You will will be drilling and taping for mounting screws. I can take some photos of mine if you need them, but you may want to do it some other way. You need to take your time and think it out. You want no bind in the scales and run them parallel to the table. I'll try to find some threads for you to look at.
That's about all I can think of at the moment. Have fun. I'm sure the other members here will come up with many other suggestions. Most know more than me.
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/x2-mini-mill-igauging-dro-install.24844/
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/dros-installed-on-hf-mini-mill.20561/
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/installation-of-igaging-dro-on-a-mini-mill.16794/
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/just-added-my-x-axis-dro-to-my-mini-mill.11371/
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/mini-mill-users-guide-by-littlemachineshop-com.201/
Roy
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Hukshawn
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Aaaaaaaaaaaand... I stripped the plastic gears already... hahahaha....
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Hukshawn
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Hahaha. No, it was an accident. I was just playing around with it with a few end mills on a block of soft steel, before I took it all apart to clean and adjust. Then I decided to try a small fly cutter. Was going fine when I lowered the Z and took another pass. I didn't lock the head and there was a bit of back lash hung up. As it was cutting it dropped that remaining back lash and jammed. I ordered a set of steel gears. I spent enough for now, I'll get the belt kit down the road.
And yes, I would have loved a bigger mill... I got what I could afford to at least give me milling capabilities.
And yes, I would have loved a bigger mill... I got what I could afford to at least give me milling capabilities.
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Hukshawn
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I suppose I shouldn't be surprised by how far out of align the base to the Z axis is... that's gonna be a pain to correct...
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OK, not too nice looking ...
... but the apparent misalignment might be due to a crummy column mount casting. Before you start cutting metal, do what you can to check that the face of the column is perpendicular to the Y dovetails (or parallel to the table).
That said, note that even if the face of the column is not square to the Y axis or parallel to the X, it won't have any effect on the accuracy or operation of the machine. Consider a round column mill. The head can rotate around the vertical axis, and does so whenever you raise or lower the head. But once it's locked in place, as long as you can re-establish 0,0, the actual angle is immaterial. Bridgeport mills have rotatable heads, too.
The only thing you have to worry about with your mill is the tram of the head. The side-to-side tram is of course adjustable with that great big bolt. It'll take some care to adjust, as there may be shifting as the bolt is tightened. Front-to-back adjustments are only possible by dismounting the column and either scraping the castings or adding shims.
... but the apparent misalignment might be due to a crummy column mount casting. Before you start cutting metal, do what you can to check that the face of the column is perpendicular to the Y dovetails (or parallel to the table).
That said, note that even if the face of the column is not square to the Y axis or parallel to the X, it won't have any effect on the accuracy or operation of the machine. Consider a round column mill. The head can rotate around the vertical axis, and does so whenever you raise or lower the head. But once it's locked in place, as long as you can re-establish 0,0, the actual angle is immaterial. Bridgeport mills have rotatable heads, too.
The only thing you have to worry about with your mill is the tram of the head. The side-to-side tram is of course adjustable with that great big bolt. It'll take some care to adjust, as there may be shifting as the bolt is tightened. Front-to-back adjustments are only possible by dismounting the column and either scraping the castings or adding shims.
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Hukshawn
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I assume I can loosen those nuts and bump it back.
Ya, for some reason, in my mind, the head moved back and forth and that column crooked would make a crooked cut... it's been a long day, brain isn't firing on all cylinders.
Can't wait for those metal gears to show to... in 3 week...
I guess in the mean time I'll get it all cleaned up, dro's mounted, and maybe trammed. I have a nice chunk of 5/8" thick rubber sheet ill mount the mill on to quiet it down. Did the same to my lathe and it shut it right up. Minimal vibration/noise transfer to the house.
Ya, for some reason, in my mind, the head moved back and forth and that column crooked would make a crooked cut... it's been a long day, brain isn't firing on all cylinders.
Can't wait for those metal gears to show to... in 3 week...
I guess in the mean time I'll get it all cleaned up, dro's mounted, and maybe trammed. I have a nice chunk of 5/8" thick rubber sheet ill mount the mill on to quiet it down. Did the same to my lathe and it shut it right up. Minimal vibration/noise transfer to the house.