Harbor freight bandsaw help

casca92 said:
Would like to find out the difference between HF bandsaw models 93762 and model 62377.
believe harbor freight is going to have 25% sale for easter weekend.

thanx in advance
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They're probably identical, but the 62377 is 12 pounds heavier. Maybe an extra tool or just thicker packaging. <g> Superburban is probably right, in that you'll likely have to call your local store to see which one they carry. A Grizzly saw might be a better deal if only for the upgraded quality control, but it will come at a cost. ($59 higher plus you lose your sale price)

I opted for a portable bandsaw, and will build a frame/base for it myself, now that I'm retired and can get to the gazillion project I had put off. I have a cross-slide vise to use for micro-adjustment.
A pack of 3 good Milwaukee bimetal blades cost $24 from Amazon, and they cut better and, I'm sure, longer.
 
I've had one of these saws for quite some time and yes the blade had a tendency to just off the pulleys until I shimmed the bearing on the drive side out about .060" also had a problem with not being able to get a straight cut found the dove tail guide at the blade rollers wasn't square with the world took it off and with just a little file work got it straight and true with the world.
 
6 of one, half a dozen of the other.

No matter which one you get you will take it apart and reassemble it right with a new blade. That's the norm for HF machine tools.

I have one, the factory blade had issues... It had a weld on it that made the machine jump every time it passed the cut and when the cut ended it had to be reinstalled as it would come off... I use blades from Littlemachineshop.com and they work great and solved the issues.
 
Superburban said:
Looks like the same thing, just double the price. $398.95 with shipping, Vs HF $250 - 25%= $188, + tax.

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I agree with you I just bought a new
G4030 from Grizzly they list for $895.
But it is a great saw I love it cuts straight right out of the crate

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xplodee said:
Any tips on how to get one of these saws to stop throwing the blade off? I don't really know where to start on tweaking/tuning this thing. I had it running pretty well I thought, but now it throws the blade off the pulleys constantly!
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The trick for keeping it from throwing the blade is to tighten the crap out of it. You CANNOT overtighten the blade by hand. You do need to make sure everything is in alignment but the main reason for the blade coming off is that it is not tight enough. I read about this one one of the bandsaw groups and it made all the difference with mine. See if that doesn't do the trick.
 
I followed the procedure in the above referenced PDF and installed a new blade (from McMaster) in the process. Saw is now running like a champ. Thanks all.
 
blades are on the way new saw newest # item
after looking at 2 or more times on the floor at HF
Has anyone else tried to mount this saw on top of the $ 29 dollar roll cart ? not real crazy about working down on my knees. PRIESTS and special LADIES work on their knees.

any other ideas

thanx
 
harrzack said:
There is an adjustment the tilts the drive wheel left and right from vertical. I believe this is called 'tracking'. There should be a bit of a crown to the tire on the wheels... this helps the blade center itself, I suspect if you tweek this adjustment you should be able to keep the band inpace
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The saw has no tires and the wheels have no crown. If the OP is using the blade that came with the saw ,the blade has probably stretched to the point that it cannot be tightened any more. Starrett or Morse are good bi-metal blades .
 
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