That makes it a little less hairy for sure, they are like all half nuts or fruits out here, so one has to got to watch them every second. Grades are like 6%, and a bit curvy too, especially coming out of LA, so one has to really watch it. But, still, if you've never pulled a trailer it can be intimidating as hell on flat ground or no. Let me know how the drawbar thing turns out, curious, haven't taken mine out yethttp://manuals.chudov.com/Gorton-MasterMill/Gorton-MasterMill-Maintenance-Manual.pdf
Check out Page 66It's all the options [NICE!! .Looks like a little fancier machine than mine, I don't have the auto, VFD speed control on mine. Glad you made it home OK.
It was a pretty straight shot from NY to Philly. the biggest grades were going up and down the bridges.
Wasn't too bad all in all though. I was in traffic most of the time so I never got up to speed for very long.
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Gorton I 22 Mastermill Serial #
- Thread starter 63steward
- Start date
Hi all,
It's been a while since I've been back on the site. In graduate school now and sleep a higher priority. About to have a summer off and playing with this machine, took forever to get the sub panel in, then the guy didn't put the wire run in conduit, so waiting on the fix. Can't get it inspected and afraid if there's a fire I'll SOL with homeowners insurance. This machine has a powered on the X- axis too, and that's where the wheel snapped in moving it. Anyone know if that's the end of the screw or just the power feed housing assembly? I'm afraid to take apart to find out!
One cool surprise though, it came with a 6" KURT vise. Thinking about adding an oiler system, has the original push/plunger type, no idea if working. All in all, seems in good shape though.
I am considering buying a B&S # 9 to ER Collett tool holder. anybody know what the max size is? I have a # 9 3/4" collet that looks like maybe the max.So, maybe a # ER 32? Also, where might a guy buy a good USA made one?
It's been a while since I've been back on the site. In graduate school now and sleep a higher priority. About to have a summer off and playing with this machine, took forever to get the sub panel in, then the guy didn't put the wire run in conduit, so waiting on the fix. Can't get it inspected and afraid if there's a fire I'll SOL with homeowners insurance. This machine has a powered on the X- axis too, and that's where the wheel snapped in moving it. Anyone know if that's the end of the screw or just the power feed housing assembly? I'm afraid to take apart to find out!
One cool surprise though, it came with a 6" KURT vise. Thinking about adding an oiler system, has the original push/plunger type, no idea if working. All in all, seems in good shape though.
I am considering buying a B&S # 9 to ER Collett tool holder. anybody know what the max size is? I have a # 9 3/4" collet that looks like maybe the max.So, maybe a # ER 32? Also, where might a guy buy a good USA made one?
- Joined
- Jun 24, 2014
- Messages
- 12
63Stewart,
Like you, I have a 1-22 Mastermil with s/n 41151. The sales receipt shows order date of March 3, 1960 and shipment occurring June 7, 1960. I'm just getting it put back together after a full disassembly, paint and bearings. I ran the mill before disassembly on a Woods E-Trac VFD (single phase input) with great results. You mentioned having good manuals. Are they for your specific mill? I've located manuals online but only for much earlier or much later production dates. If they are specific to yours, is there a chance of obtaining copies? The manual numbers will intertie with machine age.
Greg
Like you, I have a 1-22 Mastermil with s/n 41151. The sales receipt shows order date of March 3, 1960 and shipment occurring June 7, 1960. I'm just getting it put back together after a full disassembly, paint and bearings. I ran the mill before disassembly on a Woods E-Trac VFD (single phase input) with great results. You mentioned having good manuals. Are they for your specific mill? I've located manuals online but only for much earlier or much later production dates. If they are specific to yours, is there a chance of obtaining copies? The manual numbers will intertie with machine age.
Greg
Hello All.
Thanks for all the feedback. LilJoe, I'm in Central California near Fresno.If anyone knows an enthusiast out my way, I could sure use help. I would like to rebuild/restore this thing. I'm reasonably sure it needs scraping, seals and some lube system repair, but seems sound otherwise.Table and knee seem to move smoothly. Wont know 'til the chips fly. I haven't even powered it up yet due to the delay with two so called electricians. I eventually just pulled all the circuits/conduit myself and passed inspection. I am a little worried about bypassing all the original contractors as a friend suggested, and powering the motor directly. What do you guys think? The power feeds on x, y axes are all 120V. I hate to admit it, but all I have done so far is move it back further into the garage. My summer got spent remodeling my house, grad school is kicking my butt. Greg, I will upload what I have for you sometime this week, If you don't see it can you shoot me an email address? I don't know if that's prohibited. Would love to see some pics of your restoration.
I bought a Lenze VFD for the mill and my power is all in, just need to rearrange all this iron and hook them up. I'm building some machinery skates now to move them around, get them leveled and set up. Bought a precision Starrett level for the task, don't have a Master Precision level though.
Meanwhile, this off the thread topic by a mile, but I got the bug even worse and bought a Monarch K-13 engine lathe (1966), I will post serial #. I also just bought a Harig 618 Surface Grinder, on the way here by freight. Will be here this week.
The lathe has a taper attachment and came w/ 4 good chucks, but is missing the casting from the rod ( it is supposed to be captured between two spindle nuts) to the rear way of lathe bed. Anybody know where I can find one? I could also use an operator's manual for it, if anybody has one. It will probably need a complete overhaul too. I'll post some pics, perhaps in another thread..
Thanks for all the feedback. LilJoe, I'm in Central California near Fresno.If anyone knows an enthusiast out my way, I could sure use help. I would like to rebuild/restore this thing. I'm reasonably sure it needs scraping, seals and some lube system repair, but seems sound otherwise.Table and knee seem to move smoothly. Wont know 'til the chips fly. I haven't even powered it up yet due to the delay with two so called electricians. I eventually just pulled all the circuits/conduit myself and passed inspection. I am a little worried about bypassing all the original contractors as a friend suggested, and powering the motor directly. What do you guys think? The power feeds on x, y axes are all 120V. I hate to admit it, but all I have done so far is move it back further into the garage. My summer got spent remodeling my house, grad school is kicking my butt. Greg, I will upload what I have for you sometime this week, If you don't see it can you shoot me an email address? I don't know if that's prohibited. Would love to see some pics of your restoration.
I bought a Lenze VFD for the mill and my power is all in, just need to rearrange all this iron and hook them up. I'm building some machinery skates now to move them around, get them leveled and set up. Bought a precision Starrett level for the task, don't have a Master Precision level though.
Meanwhile, this off the thread topic by a mile, but I got the bug even worse and bought a Monarch K-13 engine lathe (1966), I will post serial #. I also just bought a Harig 618 Surface Grinder, on the way here by freight. Will be here this week.
The lathe has a taper attachment and came w/ 4 good chucks, but is missing the casting from the rod ( it is supposed to be captured between two spindle nuts) to the rear way of lathe bed. Anybody know where I can find one? I could also use an operator's manual for it, if anybody has one. It will probably need a complete overhaul too. I'll post some pics, perhaps in another thread..
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2019
- Messages
- 7,162
Hi,
I used to have one of these machines and I miss it dearly.
As far as bypassing the contactors yes that's what I did. In fact I removed all that stuff since it didn't seem like I could make it reliable and replacement parts were prohibitively expensive. What I had planned was to replace all the the old stuff with modern bits but I never got around to it.
If I were doing it again I would rebuild the electrical stuff first before trying to make the machine more accurate, you might find it's perfectly good as is....
Good luck,
John
I used to have one of these machines and I miss it dearly.
As far as bypassing the contactors yes that's what I did. In fact I removed all that stuff since it didn't seem like I could make it reliable and replacement parts were prohibitively expensive. What I had planned was to replace all the the old stuff with modern bits but I never got around to it.
If I were doing it again I would rebuild the electrical stuff first before trying to make the machine more accurate, you might find it's perfectly good as is....
Good luck,
John
Hi All,
Gorton Mill-
I have copied the operators manual I have. I still have to copy the parts list w/ exploded views, etc. Total is 80 odd pages. I tried to attach the whole thing, but I'm limited to 30. Perhaps you can get me an email or the moderator can help. Happy to share. I hope it helps... let me know.
So today wasn't my day, I mentioned my "new to me" Harig 618 surface grinder was coming this week. Got a call from YRC Freight today, and knew right away it was damaged, so I went to the freight terminal to look at my machine. It is in about 50 pieces. Looks like they dropped it off a roof and backed over it a few times. Had a professional rigger skid it on a 40 x 48 in Michigan, showed up like this.. bottom 2 pics
Gorton Mill-
I have copied the operators manual I have. I still have to copy the parts list w/ exploded views, etc. Total is 80 odd pages. I tried to attach the whole thing, but I'm limited to 30. Perhaps you can get me an email or the moderator can help. Happy to share. I hope it helps... let me know.
So today wasn't my day, I mentioned my "new to me" Harig 618 surface grinder was coming this week. Got a call from YRC Freight today, and knew right away it was damaged, so I went to the freight terminal to look at my machine. It is in about 50 pieces. Looks like they dropped it off a roof and backed over it a few times. Had a professional rigger skid it on a 40 x 48 in Michigan, showed up like this.. bottom 2 pics
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Me too. I was not happy, but what can you do? Ionly part not cracked was the chuck. Everything else was cracked, bent or snapped. We'll see how they handle it. Anybody know of a better machine they can recommend, besides an Okamoto. Those are a car payment, lol.
Let me know if you guys can use the rest of the manual and parts list. Can one post up to 30 attachments per post?
Let me know if you guys can use the rest of the manual and parts list. Can one post up to 30 attachments per post?
Hi Gorton Mill,
Let me know if you need the rest of the manual, If they help I'll do it, but it takes some effort. Let me know...
- Joined
- Jun 24, 2014
- Messages
- 12
63steward - appears your manual if for an older version of the 1-22 MasterMil so I don't need the remaining pages Thanks much for the work you did in getting these on the forum. I suspect they will be a help to other 1-22 owners. I can't imagine the grief you experienced once you got to YRC and viewed your grinder. Would have made me sick given that it will be so difficult / impossible to replace.