Getting rid of the compound slide?

For me facing is one operation that is difficult to do without a compound slide.
Usually with the compound on,I let the tip of the cutting tool touch the face,(with the lathe off), lock the carriage ,move the compound back a couple of thou, turn the lathe on, move the compound forward a few thou , cut with the cross slide until done,but now without it I would have to move the carriage a couple of thou and that's not an easy task on a mini lathe.

Hey, Ken,
Facing should not be an issue without a compound mounted on the cross slide. You simply loosen the top nut on your tool post and rotate the tool post to position the tip of the tool in a facing orientation and then lock the nut down. From then on, you are using the saddle feed wheel to set depth of cut and the cross slide wheel or power feed to face. You do not need to use the compound to feed a facing cut.

The only time you really need the compound is when turning tapers. It is also useful when threading if you prefer the step over method with the compound set to 29.5 degrees. Otherwise, the compound/cross slide assembly is just another set of interfaces that provides opportunities for movement (at the gibs). If you can make one, I suggest you consider doing so.
 
Hi Mike, yes I got the concept when it was brought up ,it just sounds unconventional but I'm willing to try it and see how much rigidity I gain and at what cost, maybe I should reserve my judgment until I have gone through facing ,turning, parting etc. with the compound removed.
One reason I am a bit hesitant is , I have not had much problem operating my mini lathe the way it is, and when i faced a problem I always found a way around it , for example I have modified my compound slide by adding two compound locks to it to lock the gib in place and make it more solid during facing/ parting.
 
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What size lathe is considered ridgid enough to part off as well as some other procedures? I was thinking of getting an 11 x 27 Precision Matthews lathe sometime in the future
 
That probably depends on which specific lathe as well as it's size. I can tell you that when I part off on mine
(10" Logan) with the compound replaced parting off goes much better.

An 11" PM machine would be a huge improvement compared with your 7 X 12.
 
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Yep, this time I won't mess around and get the DRO preinstalled
 
... for example I have modified my compound slide by adding two compound locks to it to lock the gib in place and make it more solid during facing/ parting.

Yep, locking the compound helps but a solid plinth will still be better. You don't need to do it but if you chose to I think it might be a useful upgrade.
 
What size lathe is considered ridgid enough to part off as well as some other procedures? I was thinking of getting an 11 x 27 Precision Matthews lathe sometime in the future

As others have said - it depends on the design of the machine. I have a 11x24 heavy pattern English tool room lathe, vintage 1963. It weighs nearly 5x what that PM 11x27 does. Parting off is no problem at all!

The light weight lathes can be made to work (and even work well), it just takes some fussing is all.
 
What size separates lathe from mini lathe?

You will find that a more useful way to look at lathes is to compare feature sets rather than just size. Most mini-lathes and hobby class lathes are 10" and under; almost all of these are imports. They typically have spindle mounts that involve 3-4 bolts to hold the chuck on or are threaded. They generally will have power feed but that is driven either by the leadscrew or a key that runs in a slot on the leadscrew instead of a separate drive shaft. Many of the cheaper lathes will be change gear lathe instead of having a quick change gear box but if they have a gear box, threading options are limited. Most of these lathes will not have hardened and ground gears, spindles and ways. Of course, the cost for these cheaper lathes is much lower than a full featured lathe. There are many, many other differences that I won't go into here.

There seems to be a clear distinction between the entry level hobby class lathes and what I consider the more serious hobby class lathes; this seems to be somewhere around 11" or so. Here we begin to see hardened and ground spindles with precision spindle bearings, camlock spindles with realistically useful spindle bore sizes, hardened and ground ways, separate power feed shafts, wider/more rigid bed widths, heavier castings, more useful quick change gear boxes, etc. To see this distinction, take a look at the feature set between the PM 1030 and the PM1127 and you'll see what I mean.

The PM 1127 is a lot of lathe for the buck. It isn't as good as the more fully featured lathes but it is a very good example of what I think is a good entry level hobby lathe. Note that there is a thing I call "feature creep". For a few hundred dollars more you can have a PM 1236 and for a bit more you can have the 1236T. This gets you into the discussion between Chinese lathes and Taiwanese lathes, the latter being of higher quality and clearly more expensive.

Of course, there are other brands of lathes that are heads and shoulders above import lathes. The Hardinge and Monarch lathes, Colchesters, etc. You can still buy a Hardinge tool room lathe for only $60K.

So, what you have to do is learn about lathes and which features are important. It ain't just about size but the features you get or don't get. Some things, like a camlock spindle, are important enough to me to be a deal breaker if the lathe doesn't have one. Does it come with a full change gear set? What are the spindle bearings specs? What kind of warranty? Where is it made?

You may or may not want to look at "old iron". If a project suits you then there are many used lathes on the market as well.

Lots to research but once you narrow it down to what you think you want, ask the guys on the forum who own those lathes and get real user opinions. Then you can decide.
 
I've read a few times in this forum that some posters got rid of their compound slides on their mini lathes. Apparently, it makes it more ridgid for parting off.


Since a compound's angle adjustment is no benefit in a parting operation, why not just put a parting tool (upside down)
on the distal end of the cross slide? Just leave the compound and tool post on in the usual (proximal) position.

Like this : <http://www.hemingwaykits.com/acatalog/Rear_Tool_Post.html>
 
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