Reilang seem not available in US based on google searches so far. I figure there has to be something available in the US that works, or we'd be reducing a lot of machines to scrap. I am for sure getting plenty of oil in place. I'm using a goldenrod with a metal tip. It's pretty obvious when oil is flowing and whether I have a good seal at the tip.
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G0709 for mcdanlj
- Thread starter mcdanlj
- Start date
Letting the lathe rest mainly on the end feet for a few days reduced the variation a bit more. I'm now seeing less than 1 thou variation between centers and a little more unsupported at the tail end in the MT5/MT3 adapter, with the weight reasonably distributed across all six feet, and comfortably level. I think it's as good as I'm going to be able to measure consistently. With level settling in, and power fed to it, I finally made chips today. Started with a piece of aluminum scrap and an indexable carbide cutter. Happy with the finish quality available with power crossfeed!
@BGHansen — do you mind providing specs on the faceplate that came with your G0709? How thick is it? What's the real outside diameter? What's the inside diameter around the spindle?
Grizzly left the faceplate out of the order when they sold to the original owner, then stonewalled on a replacement, and that makes me not super excited about paying Grizzly $231 and waiting 3-6 months for their replacement parts to arrive from China.
5" D1-5 Threaded Black Plate for 5C Zero Set Adjustment Collet Chuck for $67.50 is the cheapest way I've found yet to source 6 D1-5 camlock studs; Grizzly wants $106 (+ shipping) just for a set of six D1-5 studs (not included with their faceplate), for which they project a 3-month wait.
Honestly the use I currently intend for a faceplate is to engage a dog to turn between centers, so I don't know that I need an 11" faceplate exactly; maybe I could just get Lathe Chuck Adapter Plate 10" D1-5 for $98.95 and mill short hold-down slots into the adapter plate and use it as a faceplate. The face would be about 3.3" from ID to OD and I don't intend to mount large heavy items on the faceplate.
Then if later I want a larger faceplate, it seems that McMaster will sell me a 1" long 12" round of cast iron for $82.70 + shipping. I could machine my own faceplate and use the studs from the adapter plate to mount it.
Am I crazy?
Grizzly left the faceplate out of the order when they sold to the original owner, then stonewalled on a replacement, and that makes me not super excited about paying Grizzly $231 and waiting 3-6 months for their replacement parts to arrive from China.
5" D1-5 Threaded Black Plate for 5C Zero Set Adjustment Collet Chuck for $67.50 is the cheapest way I've found yet to source 6 D1-5 camlock studs; Grizzly wants $106 (+ shipping) just for a set of six D1-5 studs (not included with their faceplate), for which they project a 3-month wait.
Honestly the use I currently intend for a faceplate is to engage a dog to turn between centers, so I don't know that I need an 11" faceplate exactly; maybe I could just get Lathe Chuck Adapter Plate 10" D1-5 for $98.95 and mill short hold-down slots into the adapter plate and use it as a faceplate. The face would be about 3.3" from ID to OD and I don't intend to mount large heavy items on the faceplate.
Then if later I want a larger faceplate, it seems that McMaster will sell me a 1" long 12" round of cast iron for $82.70 + shipping. I could machine my own faceplate and use the studs from the adapter plate to mount it.
Am I crazy?
Or, a 12.5" OD 1.125" thick D1-5 adapter plate looks interesting for this purpose too.
$160 plus about $32 shipping included studs and shoulder stop bolts, shipped the day I ordered, and packed well, so I'm happy. I'm not going to be finishing it for a month or two; have to finish my shop project before I can get access to my grinder! ☺ But looks good so far!
The same seller on ebay also sells a 10” Chuck Adapter Plate D1-5 Spindle Mount 1-1/4” Thickness for $150 shipped, which in retrospect might have been a better idea. 12.5" on a 14" lathe is cutting it close!
I happened to see last night thta DROpros advertised a 50% off sale on DRO kits for Cyber Monday:
This seemed like agood super great deal, but when I called they said "oh, that's misleading" and then said that even though the web site wasn't specific, the discount applied only to one particular "absolute" kit that was only for mills. (The site did say limited to stock on hand, but they also make the point that they typically keep everything in stock!)
So
for misleading advertisements, but at least they admitted it and didn't try to sell me something that was not going to make me happy in the end or argue about it being misleading, so meh? I guess if they were honest that they were being misleading I should still keep them in mind for when I get a DRO setup? (EL700 vector summing would be 
but $$$ and I'm honestly not sure about 1 micron scales on a grizzly anyway...)
This seemed like a
So
for misleading advertisements, but at least they admitted it and didn't try to sell me something that was not going to make me happy in the end or argue about it being misleading, so meh? I guess if they were honest that they were being misleading I should still keep them in mind for when I get a DRO setup? (EL700 vector summing would be but $$$ and I'm honestly not sure about 1 micron scales on a grizzly anyway...)According to the manual that came with my PM-30 mill's DRO, the SINO 3-axis DROs have a Y+Z summing mode in lathe mode for when the cross slide is aligned with the lathe axis, but no vector summing. A lot of the kit vendors don't have 3-axis lathe kits available. If I can be satisfied with 5 micron, banggood currently has a sale on a-la-carte 21mm thick 5 micron glass scales and DROs. That's thinner than tpactools advertises for their otherwise apparently identical kit, though for all I know it's really the same size measured by different people.
BigA ASD8 scales at 17mm thick are the thinnest glass scales I've seen so far, and are available in 1 micron, and it looks like the BigA DROs have Y+Z summing if I haven't got my wires crossed. But so far I haven't found any US vendors.
BigA ASD8 scales at 17mm thick are the thinnest glass scales I've seen so far, and are available in 1 micron, and it looks like the BigA DROs have Y+Z summing if I haven't got my wires crossed. But so far I haven't found any US vendors.
Yesterday, I confirmed that I really do want a lathe this big. I had a rectangular part only 3" x 1" x 0.5" in which to bore a 0.8" hole only 0.4" from one end in the long dimension. I drilled and milled the hole out to 0.5" and then used a boring bar in the lathe the rest of the way out to 0.8" diameter.
The four-jaw chuck was able to hold my work, but if I had bought a nice "little" 11" swing lathe I think I would have had to clamp it onto a faceplate instead of chucking it, and I am guessing it would have been harder to center the hole. I indicated the milled hole to less than 1 thou with only about 2-3 minutes of work, which didn't feel horrible for my first time ever using a four-jaw. (Not challenging abom79 any time soon though!)
It wasn't actually critical that I indicate it quite that closely, but it was fun to take up the challenge. I suppose I should have pulled out the tenths indicator and kicked it up a notch!
Anyway, I'm no longer second-guessing myself on whether I should have instead ordered a taiwanese 11x36 or so. I'm sure I'll be working with more awkward shapes in the future. If I get good enough to take advantage of (say...) a taiwanese 1440, I can save my pennies for that later.
The four-jaw chuck was able to hold my work, but if I had bought a nice "little" 11" swing lathe I think I would have had to clamp it onto a faceplate instead of chucking it, and I am guessing it would have been harder to center the hole. I indicated the milled hole to less than 1 thou with only about 2-3 minutes of work, which didn't feel horrible for my first time ever using a four-jaw. (Not challenging abom79 any time soon though!)
It wasn't actually critical that I indicate it quite that closely, but it was fun to take up the challenge. I suppose I should have pulled out the tenths indicator and kicked it up a notch!
Anyway, I'm no longer second-guessing myself on whether I should have instead ordered a taiwanese 11x36 or so. I'm sure I'll be working with more awkward shapes in the future. If I get good enough to take advantage of (say...) a taiwanese 1440, I can save my pennies for that later.