Friction Welding & Wilton Vise Restoration

I spoke too soon; I did think of a suggestion. What if you cut a slight taper on each face (one convex, the other concave)? Maybe 10 degrees or so, shallow, just enough so that the two parts will have incentive to stay coaxial and not pop off to one side.
 
Is there any reason for so much stickout? especially on the tailstock side. Minimum stickout might help keep the parts aligned.
 
What if you cut a slight taper on each face (one convex, the other concave)? Maybe 10 degrees or so, shallow, just enough so that the two parts will have incentive to stay coaxial and not pop off to one side.
I thought of that or a perhaps a stepped profile, but I think I'm going to just make a new hub and handle so I will weld the screw directly to that and being larger in diameter, I will bore a shallow, flat bottomed hole in it for the screw, that ought to keep it centered.

I'm also thinking of what RJ said:
The chuck holding the stationary part has to be able to instantly release the stationary part when the weld is accomplished.

Now that I have tried the process It makes sense, even though the brake stops the chuck pretty fast, its still turning as the metal is cooling, possibly weakling the weld. I think I can rig something using a live center...

Is there any reason for so much stickout? especially on the tailstock side. Minimum stickout might help keep the parts aligned.

It was my first round of tests and I wanted enough meat on both ends to test the breaking point of the weld. So I made the short end long enough to clear the top of the hardy hole on my anvil. I envisioned having to gorilla pull on the long end and bending the bar without breaking the weld! LOL
 
This is quickly turning into "How to spend $400 and 80 hrs to build a $40 part".
I like it.
:)
I wish it was a $40 part, only a few places have it listed for around $400 and they all say it's out of stock, backordered, no arrival date known. But the time is the real killer for me...
 
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