Just be smart and dont think about making the "other" kind of suppressor without the proper paperwork from big brother. The only machine you'll operate then will be stamping license plates out!!
Gredpe if you want a really cool project, check out RG-G inc. They sell plans for making a working crank style .22LR gattling gun. Only problem is .22 ammo is problematic to obtain anymore at reasonable prices.
Nice break! Have you tried your hand at cerakote yet? It is definitely the way to go if you don't mind spending a few extra bucks and investing a little more time than the rattle can. This post thread is quite timely, I just finished a run of my own breaks...still needs deburring and cerakoting.
Nice break! Have you tried your hand at cerakote yet? It is definitely the way to go if you don't mind spending a few extra bucks and investing a little more time than the rattle can. This post thread is quite timely, I just finished a run of my own breaks...still needs deburring and cerakoting.
That one in particular is 12L14. Some of those are getting blued, the rest cerakoted. If you haven't done any work with 12L14 then you are missing out! The stuff is great to work with, it's considered a "free machining" metal and has trace amounts of lead in it so it machines super easy. It's not the hardest metal out there but brakes and flash suppressors don't need that hard, they just need to be able to handle the heat and the expanding gasses.
I made another one out of 303 ss because the customer wanted it polished but I find that I've never had any problems with 12L14. Just make sure it's concentric and you should be good to go, otherwise you have a nice 500 grain projectile getting launched down range...
I have cold and hot caustic blued 12L14. Cold blue takes surprisingly well, I warm up my piece with a propane torch until it works all of the moisture off, then get it a little warmer. I usually dunk my pieces into cold bluing solution, it trashes the bottle after a few dunks, but I just work the cost of the cold blue into the overall price for the brakes. Keep in mind that while cold bluing does look nice, it holds little to no protection for the material.
Hot caustic bluing on the other hand can provide very good protection to the piece. I can get from parkerize grey to midnight black depending on how long the part is left in and how you treat it directly after taking it out.
I personally prefer cerakote in almost all circumstances. I've found that it simply holds up better than park or bluing. Metal on metal is going to scratch any finish, but cerakote holds up very well. The fact that it is a heck of a lot cheaper to get into and maintain is also a plus! Let me know if you want a quick how-to post, If there's a want, I can certainly do it.
Sometime, if you have the time, I like to see a thread started with a "tutorial" for using Cerakote. I've been wanting to give it a try for the last couple of years but keep balking at the prep (and I'm not really set up to spray anything). I'd be real interested to see how you do it.
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