Fixture Stand Support, Bolts to Concrete

Here I put at tack on either side, and then ran a single bead from left to right. A lot of issues!

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Here I just made a single bead from left to right with a 5% pull angle.

I am welding in the horizontal position. I like the top of the bead, but I don’t see that the toe of the bottom of the bead is tying into the plate.

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Here is the other side: completely insufficient penetration.

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This is the last picture for the day. This is the inside right after the photo above.

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I won’t get a chance to work on this again until Saturday morning.

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One piece of advice.. get rid of the brake cleaner.. even though it's non-chlorinated, acetone won't kill you unless you light the acetone. Brake Cleaner will, if you get the chloro. Don't get in the bad habit of using brake cleaner for welding. It's a recipe for disaster at some point down the road. You'll live longer, one mistake of grabbing the wrong stuff and it's over. It's nerve gas... its death on your front door... it's the boogy man... it's ... ok you get the picture I hope.
 
One piece of advice.. get rid of the brake cleaner.. even though it's non-chlorinated, acetone won't kill you unless you light the acetone. Brake Cleaner will, if you get the chloro. Don't get in the bad habit of using brake cleaner for welding. It's a recipe for disaster at some point down the road. You'll live longer, one mistake of grabbing the wrong stuff and it's over. It's nerve gas... its death on your front door... it's the boogy man... it's ... ok you get the picture I hope.
This is worth a read:


Two of the main takeaways are that chlorinated brake cleaner is banned in California, & that the nonchlorinated brake cleaner is particularly flammable.

For me, I would be happy with acetone or denatured alcohol (ethanol).

I was attracted to the nonchlorinated brake cleaner because it is an aerosol can, & you get some pressure when you apply it to the area that you are going to clean. I would like acetone or denatured alcohol in an aerosol can!

EDIT: Now I just read that California banned the sale of denatured alcohol. Acetone for the win!
 
I need a cheater bar from this point. The bolt is pushing a (stud?) through the anchor bolt, expanding the sides of the anchor bolt tight into the concrete.

I am also uploading a picture of the (stud?) that gets hammered the anchor bolt.

View attachment 404083

View attachment 404084

View attachment 404085
The bolt does NOT push the stud.

You use a punch, there is a special one for this, or make one.

You drop in anchor, with punch drive wedge with hammer.

Now you can insert bolt and determine proper length.

These are nice but not my favorite as the anchors are single use.

Our building came with what looks similar to lag bolt, the shaft is consistent with a raised rib forming a thread.

Far stronger than these and multiple lengths.

You do need to use CORRECT drill but these are sold where the screws are sold.

They need to be screwed in with impact and can be reused.

Simply fill old hole with concrete mixed up without the rocks.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
 
This is worth a read:


Two of the main takeaways are that chlorinated brake cleaner is banned in California, & that the nonchlorinated brake cleaner is particularly flammable.

For me, I would be happy with acetone or denatured alcohol (ethanol).

I was attracted to the nonchlorinated brake cleaner because it is an aerosol can, & you get some pressure when you apply it to the area that you are going to clean. I would like acetone or denatured alcohol in an aerosol can!

EDIT: Now I just read that California banned the sale of denatured alcohol. Acetone for the win!
:rolleyes: :laughing::surrender::cry: And the politicians :einstein:
 
I finished this without taking pictures and posting the play-by-play on the forum.

One huge problem I had with my MIG machine is that the spindle that the 11 pound roll of wire sets on was too tight! That has been making for feeding problems for a very long time. It is sure not fun when the wire is not feeding smoothly!

I also washed some welds with my oxy-acetylene torch because I just got a new tank of oxy-acetylene, & I wanted to test the gas.

Here it is after one coat of cheapo spray paint:

086A00C5-DCE6-4EF3-993B-159F6693FB37.jpeg
 
The bolt does NOT push the stud.

You use a punch, there is a special one for this, or make one.

You drop in anchor, with punch drive wedge with hammer.

Now you can insert bolt and determine proper length.

These are nice but not my favorite as the anchors are single use.

Our building came with what looks similar to lag bolt, the shaft is consistent with a raised rib forming a thread.

Far stronger than these and multiple lengths.

You do need to use CORRECT drill but these are sold where the screws are sold.

They need to be screwed in with impact and can be reused.

Simply fill old hole with concrete mixed up without the rocks.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
Wow, I have been doing this wrong. I learned how to do this from my uncle who is an electrician. When I see him, I will let him know that he has been doing it wrong.

Next time I use these, I will refer back to your helpful post.

EDIT: While the paint was drying, I had time to kill. I got a punch and hammered each stud down with a sledgehammer.
 
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