[How do I?] Fix/make a bushing

 
You might try carefully compressing the bushing in a 4 jaw chuck to reduce the clearance some. I did this with
success on an electric motor with sleeve bearings that run in oil and have been running it for years. Another thing
that may be beneficial would be to rotate the bushing so that it wears on the less worn side. I realize these methods
may be considered crude by some but might work in this case. You can go to plan "B" of course if you have to.
 
Thanks everyone, I really appreciate the replies. The bushing is not located in a place where it could be easily lubricated without disassembling a great deal. How would you add a jerk to 7/8" hex stock with a 5/8" bore? I don't have milling capabilities, just a lathe and drill press. I only recently researched the properties of brass vs bronze. I thought my first failure was because I used brass. Isn't bronze preferred for bearings and bushings? I would prefer to bore bronze hex stock but I couldn't find any on McMaster-Carr but there were plenty of bronze sleeve options so I thought that might be a solution. What type of bronze hex stock should I be looking for?


Here's a mcmaster page with a great many zerk options:

you could easily just hand drill and tap for any of these.

Yep, try drawing it up with a bronze oillite insert and use steel for the hex. If the steel is less than say 0.075" thick at the thinnest, its going to fail on you. If i understand you are only 0.125 thick without an insert (.875-.625)/2= .125

here's the thinnest tube i could find, .187
 
shouldn't be too hard to find a milling attachment on ebay or such
 
here's another thought. Learn to mill on the lathe.

mount a large end mill in the spindle. now you got a poor man's mill. A small fly cutter is another option.

Get this 5C collet block set

Find a way to clamp it to your compound - may take some ingenuity here.

Get a large 5C collet and a piece of bronze stock. The needs to be long enough to have a handle to be inside the collet. Now machine each side in the lathe.

Or, take deakin's suggestion and get a milling attachment.

Remember, the whole point of this hobby is to find a reason to buy more shop equipment. :)
 
Yep, try drawing it up with a bronze oillite insert and use steel for the hex. If the steel is less than say 0.075" thick at the thinnest, its going to fail on you. If i understand you are only 0.125 thick without an insert (.875-.625)/2= .125
I like this idea. It's been a while since I had the snow blower apart but I may be able to make the opening in the frame larger for say 1" steel hex stock. I think I'll start with 7/8" hex stock and have 1" stock for plan B. And I can weld a steel washer to make the bushing's flange. My earlier attempt to braze the brass also failed.

Of course this raises more questions for a novice like me. I recently purchased a copy of Machinery's Handbook. Is that the "go to" source for information on tolerances? I think I found the running and sliding fits I should use between the shaft and bushing bore. What tolerance should I use between the hex stock bore and bronze insert for a press fit that won't spin?
 
shouldn't be too hard to find a milling attachment on ebay or such
Yes, a milling attachment is on my wish list. I can really make this one part justify more shop equipment. That's always good.
 
If it's in awkward place to get to once reassembled, grab some cooper brake pipe, cross drill it and arrange the pipe so one end is in the hole, with the other leading somewhere accessible (higher up, obviously) with a cap of some kind. Dribble a little oil in every time you use it.
 
A thou. would be plenty . Heat the hex and and cool the Oilite if you want . You could use high strength Loctite if you wanted to also . I like the idea of sleeving just because if the bushing would ever wear , simply pop a new one in .

FWIW , we have a new member coming on board from Cheyanne Wyo . You may want to look him up .

Jbgoode will be coming on board soon . Located in Cheyanne . ;)
 
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