First threads!

Here is how I use an indicator to set my depths into a hole or up to a shoulder. When you are cutting a 18tpi thread or as smaller, its pretty easy to stop within a couple thousandths. It only goes around the dial about 1/2 of a revolution so you don't have to count.
Joe Hynes 20200406_152821.jpg20200406_152857.jpg
 
So I tried more threading tonight.
Some 5/8" cold rolled, tried a 32 tpi thread. I definitely need to grind a proper HSS bit as the carbide insert doesn't like the low speed that I'm comfortable with.
All in service of learning though, I absolutely love doing this stuff!
 
Ah David, your in for sure. Your enthusiasm is exciting.
Cutting threads was one of the first things I wanted to learn when I got my first little lathe.
I must have made a few dozen of these captive nut thingies. Fine thread, coarse thread, left hand, right hand, metric, etc.
My biggest problem was trying to use the thread wires as my left hand was severed years ago so I don’t have full dexterity there. @mikey suggested a thread mic, I haven’t touched the wires since.
Yea, internal threads are a whole new challenge, a fun one also.
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Z2V said:
Ah David, your in for sure. Your enthusiasm is exciting.
Cutting threads was one of the first things I wanted to learn when I got my first little lathe.
I must have made a few dozen of these captive nut thingies. Fine thread, coarse thread, left hand, right hand, metric, etc.
My biggest problem was trying to use the thread wires as my left hand was severed years ago so I don’t have full dexterity there. @mikey suggested a thread mic, I haven’t touched the wires since.
Yea, internal threads are a whole new challenge, a fun one also.
View attachment 319978
Click to expand...
Awww thanks man :D
I'm a ways away yet but that's what I want to make for my step-son!!!
 
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DavidR8 said:
I definitely need to grind a proper HSS bit as the carbide insert doesn't like the low speed that I'm comfortable with.
All in service of learning though, I absolutely love doing this stuff!
Click to expand...

Yes, go grind a good tool. I promise you that it will be worth it. A HSS tool will cut much cleaner at the low speeds you're working with.

Let me give you some advice on grinding that tool. You know that when orienting the tool to the work we usually use the fishtail gauge to do it. You have to futz with the fishtail while aligning the tool post so the tip of the threading tool sits perfectly in the 60 degree cutout. This is a major pain. The way I get around that is to use a protractor and mark out the 30 degree angle on the left side of the tool using the shank of the tool as a reference upon which the protractor sits. If you grind that first angle at exactly 30 degrees and then match the second 30 degree angle on the right side of the tool accurately, you can just use the shank of the tool as a reference and never even bother with the fishtail to align the tool. You just need a piece of stock that is faced on both ends. Place one end of the stock on the face of the chuck and the shank of your threading tool on the other end of the stock and you're aligned. Takes seconds to do, and it will be accurate.

Jeff is right. Look into a thread mic. It will save what hair you have left if you don't have to go searching for the thread wire you WILL drop in the chip pan.
 
mikey said:
Yes, go grind a good tool. I promise you that it will be worth it. A HSS tool will cut much cleaner at the low speeds you're working with.

Let me give you some advice on grinding that tool. You know that when orienting the tool to the work we usually use the fishtail gauge to do it. You have to futz with the fishtail while aligning the tool post so the tip of the threading tool sits perfectly in the 60 degree cutout. This is a major pain. The way I get around that is to use a protractor and mark out the 30 degree angle on the left side of the tool using the shank of the tool as a reference upon which the protractor sits. If you grind that first angle at exactly 30 degrees and then match the second 30 degree angle on the right side of the tool accurately, you can just use the shank of the tool as a reference and never even bother with the fishtail to align the tool. You just need a piece of stock that is faced on both ends. Place one end of the stock on the face of the chuck and the shank of your threading tool on the other end of the stock and you're aligned. Takes seconds to do, and it will be accurate.

Jeff is right. Look into a thread mic. It will save what hair you have left if you don't have to go searching for the thread wire you WILL drop in the chip pan.
Click to expand...
Ahhh that's a great tip on tool alignment. I used a 1-2-3 block tonight to make sure the tool was perpendicular to the work.

I added a set of thread wires to my KBC cart today. Do you have a preferred thread mic?
 
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I bought this one from Amazon. Naturally, there are more expensive, higher quality thread mics out there but this works just fine for me for the work I’m doing.
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