First Real Project

Actually, I thought I was uncomplicating a complicated thing. Regardless, your tip on how to shave off M and cut to the tabulated keyseat depth is just the sort of thing that experienced machinists know and hobbyists don't. Have you thought about writing this kind of thing down, John? I'm convinced there is a wealth of knowledge just like this that you could pass on to the guys that would make things so much simpler for them/us.

I've often thought that we should have a "Pro Tips" folder or sub-forum or something that would be reserved for guys with a lifetime of experience and knowledge to give tips just like this Woodruff Key thing. And it wouldn't be restricted to machining. There are experts and journeymen and masters in every field here on HM and their knowledge would be gratefully received, too.

What do you think, John?
 
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Good morning guys,thanks for all the info on woodruff keys.I see that there is more to them than what I thought.I love having all the info on how to cut them and having general information and the technical side information to help understand them which I will be printing.Here's another example why I need to find myself a Machinist Handbook :)
Anyway the keys are 1/8 and 3/32 so off to check out the KEO brand and others but I'm afraid the my equipment may not be up the KEO level but going to shoot for it.Thanks guys
 
Kroll said:
Here's another example why I need to find myself a Machinist Handbook :)
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It is actually "Machinery's Handbook", and they are sold used for cheap prices on places like eBay if you search around a bit. An older edition is every bit as useful for ordinary work. A brand new, latest edition version will cover CNC and more recent machines and technologies, and an older version will cover older techniques like blacksmith work somewhat better. They all cover the basics. I have the 22nd edition, 1985, that I got for $10 used and in nice condition. I also have a 1st edition reprint that I got pretty cheap new, they must have printed more than they could easily sell, very interesting reading, those old timers were no slouches...

There is also plenty of information available on the internet. Google can be your friend:
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=cutting+woodruff+key+slot

And, of course, Hobby-Machinist should always be the very first place you go when looking for all things for hobby machinists... :grin big:
 
Guys my KEO cutters come in today so I be back on the shaft project maybe by weekend.Its HOOOOOOT here in Tx.From the research and what ya'll suggested and how good these cutters are I believe I got the real deal and not an imposter.Well it looks like these are the real deal
 

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Guys today is the day that I finish my first project that had to actually fit something.Got the woodruff keys cut so I slid on the gears on both ends and it fits.The end that see in the pic which is 1/2 the woodruff key is just alittle to deep but its still up enough for the gear.The gear is not a perfect fit due to it being .02 to big on the bore but I am going to call it good.But I forgot about the oil channel that needs cutting,well I do have some splitter blades that's thin but guess its ok to stack them.But I don't have an arbor,guys what kind of info do I need off the blade to go arbor shopping that has the R8 shank?After this then this project be complete.Thanks guys for the help and pics providedShaft1.jpgShaft2.jpgShaft3.jpg
 
ThinWoodsman said:
looks like it needs a 1" diameter arbor (third number). Any R8 slitting saw arbor should handle that. Shars R8 Shank Slotting Saw Arbor
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I do not recommend that style arbor with the multiple telescoping rings to fit different saw center hole sizes. I have one, and it sounds like a good idea, but in reality the fit is sloppy and the rings can hang up on each other and then not support the saw. Get or make one the size you need. I would make one with a straight shank to fit a collet (instead of the built in R8 taper) and it would then also fit other machines and setups. A basic saw arbor with a straight shank is an easy to make shop project, just need some round stock and basic cutting tools.
 
Bob I like that ideal of making one to fit collet which like your saying a good project.Guys I want to give this project try but what would be a good material for slitter saw arbor?I do have some 1144 stressproof rod
 
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