First Freehand Turn on Mini Lathe

[TomWS]

I 'needed' a brass pull for an application in my workshop. I didn't really 'need' it but I was looking for an excuse to try freehand turning on my recently acquired 7x16 mini Lathe. I looked into getting a Turnado, but thought I should, at least, give it a try with tools on hand.

I figured a flat carbide Easy Wood bowl gouge with a small diameter tip (Ci5 using Easy Wood's nomenclature) should be relatively easy to guide around a brass bar. So, holding the gouge edge even with the tailstock center I was very pleasantly surprised that the distance from the bottom of the gouge to the cross slide was exactly 2". Perfect! I could use a 123 block as a tool rest!

So, taking the compound off the cross slide and using a Magnetic holder, I came up with this:

And after a bit of turning, sanding, and polishing, I ended up with this!


I do need to figure out how to drill and tap the base, but, what the heck, this feels like a good start to me!
I did get some chatter after I had cut the neck most of the way. It sanded out easily, but I'd like to avoid it in the future. More practice I guess...
Deets: Turned around 920 RPM, no lubricant. The brass cut pretty nicely with the gouge, but I think I'll get a small one to dedicate to the task and also be able to use Easy Wood's detail bit. The bit was a used bit, but it seemed sharp enough for this task.

 

[mikey]

If I understand you correctly, you are using a wood turning bowl gouge like a graver, yes? If so, then it clearly works. I caution you to keep the tool angle flat or it will dig in and catch in brass. For steel and aluminum, lower the tool support a bit and angle the tool up 5-10 degrees and it will cut freely.

Best option for tooling is to use a graver. Cheaper and very effective.

 

[brino]

Great result!
Congratulations.

So you are also a graver now........but the good (above ground) kind!
...as in one that uses a graver tool.........

-brino

 

[TomWS]

if so, then it clearly works. I caution you to keep the tool angle flat or it will dig in and catch in brass.

That's the beauty of using the 123 block, it keeps the tool nice and flat and edge even with the center.

Best option for tooling is to use a graver. Cheaper and very effective.

It doesn't meet the WIHOH criteria...

WIHOH: What I have On Hand...

 

[mikey]

Okay, no problem.

 

[TomWS]

Best option for tooling is to use a graver. Cheaper and very effective.

Actually, in a sense this advice does meet WIHOH criteria. I have a number of shaped HSS scrapers that could be used as Gravers (as I understand them) and, if I was trying steel or Aluminum, I'd probably try grinding them to check that out, but Brass seemed pretty perfect for using this particular cutter. The cutter's edge was on center, the tool had a flat bottom, there was absolutely no rake in the cutter, and the small radius of the cutter allowed me to literally shape into the narrow portion of the pull while the round edge made it easy to shape the convex portion of the pull.

Net is that I'll probably try some grinding of what I have, when I move beyond the simple stuff. Thanks for that AND I will absolutely agree with your advice on using an alternate chuck, eg ER type. I had no problem while turning, but the sanding activity left a few nicks in my hand as I lost track of the moving jaws.

 

[T Bredehoft]

lost track of the moving jaws.

Riiiight.

 

[Al 1]

Tom, It looks nice. If you have enough stock left on the part. (since you already parted it ) flip it end for end and drill and tap in chuck.
Or next time, leave enough stock and drill and tap first and then part off. Al.

 

[addertooth]

And another approach for mini lathes for free-handing. Those who make fountain pens on a mini-lathe use this for artful shapes.

 

[mikey]

Actually, in a sense this advice does meet WIHOH criteria. I have a number of shaped HSS scrapers that could be used as Gravers (as I understand them) and, if I was trying steel or Aluminum, I'd probably try grinding them to check that out, but Brass seemed pretty perfect for using this particular cutter. The cutter's edge was on center, the tool had a flat bottom, there was absolutely no rake in the cutter, and the small radius of the cutter allowed me to literally shape into the narrow portion of the pull while the round edge made it easy to shape the convex portion of the pull.

Net is that I'll probably try some grinding of what I have, when I move beyond the simple stuff. Thanks for that AND I will absolutely agree with your advice on using an alternate chuck, eg ER type. I had no problem while turning, but the sanding activity left a few nicks in my hand as I lost track of the moving jaws.

As long as your tool worked for you, that is what counts. I only suggested gravers because those are the tools that are commonly used on work like this. Diamond-shaped gravers cut fast, while round gravers smooth, finish and can take cuts like angel hair. On brass, no sanding or polishing is usually required after a round graver unless you need a mirror.

On a Sherline lathe, WR Smith developed a beautiful tool rest that clamps to the ways of the lathe. On larger lathes, adapting such a rest is problematic because it has to be rock-solid. The rest that @addertooth linked to looks interesting. It has possibilities provided it doesn't flex under cutting pressure.

I agree with you about using an ER chuck if you have one. It only takes one whap on the knuckles from a jawed chuck to drive this lesson home and yes, I speak from experience. A solid hit from a chuck spinning at 1,000 rpm is enough to make you a believer! Be safe, okay?