ERL1340 Thread Cutting with a Proximity Stop System

It is an example, I use different sensors depending on the build requirements. It is hard to find a shielded sensor with a 12mm sense range that have high refresh rates and can handle 500 mA of currents. Other sensor I use is shielded with a 1.2kHz refresh rate with an 8 mm sense range and 200 mA. If you have more than 2 relays and indicator lights powered off of the sensor it may shut down the sensor. I use shielded because it is flush with the face of an aluminum holder, also unshielded is more influenced by metal around it. Lower refresh rates will be less accurate, and you need a minimum of 8 and preferably 12mm sense range for higher threading speeds. There is also reproducibility of the sensor. The longer sense range is a bit less accurate, but still in the 0.001" reproducibility range.
 
@mksj

Mark, I have my PM1340gt lathe set up with a VFD using the original relays etc. as per your previously posted plans. Is there anyway to incorporate a proximity stop with no or minimal changes to my current setup? I'd rather not strip out all of the controls and rebuild from scratch at this point.
Thanks
Rich
 
We use proximity switches, on the boilers, but the ones your using seem to be of better repeatability than the ones we use.. if I tell it to stop at 3”, it maybe 2.85” or 3.2 “, or anywhere in between. For what we use them for, it close enough, but hardly true precision.
 
The proximity sensor system does not work with the basic VFD install systems using contactors, and for safety reasons should be installed as a complete system with appropriate interlocks and safety redundancy. Accuracy of the proximity sensors can vary quite a bit based on many factors, I looked for specific characteristics in the ones I have used depending on the application. I am a bit surprised at the repeatability of the ones I have used, small variations on the stopping distance have more to do with the drive train slop than the senor accuracy. I am also considering it to disengage the feed system as opposed to an electrical stop. Ultimately an ELS type feed system would be a more ideal solution, lathe manufactures should consider this option as opposed to clunky gear boxes.
 
mksj said:
Ultimately an ELS type feed system would be a more ideal solution, lathe manufactures should consider this option as opposed to clunky gear boxes.
Click to expand...

The designs of most lathes and mills dates back over 100 years ago. While I would love to have a hobby lathe designed and built with modern technology, I'm certain I couldn't afford it. My daydream of 'if I ever win the lottery' would have me looking for a true EVS head mill and a lathe with ELS and digital thread/feed. Won't ever happen though, so I guess I had better hang onto what I have. :)
 
I expect that a lathe designed around an ELS and a VFD would be much less expensive to build as it would be much less complicated as it wouldn’t need any gears, only a belt drive for the spindle and a servo for the lead screw.
 
So, do you have a build thread for the proximity sensor setup/install? With a VFD and now ELS under the hood...I feel like this is the trifecta to bring it all together. Although currently, my VFD does utilize a contactor.
 
Great video, Mark. Tell us a bit about the light bar you've got on the back splash please!
 
As far as proximity system builds, it usually will take me a week or longer to build a complete control system after I have components in, and lots of little details. These do not work with AC systems or contactors, and require a complete redsign of how the control system works. So no videos or build manual, just an accumulation of an evolutionary process as to the design, components, wiring and programming for each application. My newer systems are not VFD specific, but designed to be used with VFD's that have at least 7 inputs and programming features required for the system.

As far as the LED light strips for under the splash shield lip, they make a huge improvement in lighting the whole lathe bed and eliminating the shadows from overhead lights. Any 40-48" light bar will work, the ones I use are either 12 or 24VDC, and I prefer a 3000-4000K color spectrum which is not too yellow or too blue. The one I use on my ERL-1340 is a display counter type, at 42W it puts out a lot of light, but it is angled down so does not shine in your face. It is probably too long and wide for smaller lathes.
www.ebay.com

Brand New 48" LED LIGHT BAR 3500k w/12 Inch cord And mount Brackets HIGH POWER | eBay

HIGHEST QUALITY. This is for the light bar only.
www.ebay.com

This is what I used on my PM-1340GT and 1440GT for other individuals.
www.ebay.com

NEW 3'3" Long LED Light Bar Ceiling/Under Cabinet Fixture 24V 12W Soft White | eBay

NEW Long Non-Waterproof 24v 12w Warm White LED Light Bar. Outdoor Lighting: bridge, building exterior lines outline, building glass curtain wall washer, projection and other signs. Use LED light source, less power consumption, less heat light.
www.ebay.com
 
@mksj

Mark, I went ahead and ordered the Eaton sensor you used. On the zoro site, it doesn't provide enough information (nor the part) regarding the "micro 4-pin connector." It always annoys me when vendors offer connectorized sensors without the mates. Do you by chance have a part number/source? Thanks again.

Sometime we'll have to meet up, I'm in neighboring San Marcos.
 
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