ERL1340 Thread Cutting with a Proximity Stop System

mksj

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I often get questions on thread cutting using a proximity stop system, recently I had to make several threaded micrometer shafts out of O1 steel, all with the same dimensions and thread tolerances. I do not have any fancy camera holders or editing software, so just propped the camera on the head stock and hoped it didn't fall off. More just showing how I do most threading with this system, typically on a heavier lathe you can take deeper cuts on the first few passes, but I take 0.01" depth passes until I am close to target (or very deep thread), then a 0.005" or too target depth if step is less than 0.01", and then a spring pass. Use of a center is advised for longer stock stick out or thin stock. There is always some degree of flex when turning so finished dimensions do not always correlate with dial or DRO readings. There are also some variances based on the material, speeds and feeds. I use lay down carbide inserts, usually by Carmex or Mitsubishi, I have been using the same insert for over 2 years and only rotated it because I banged/broke one of the tips. Previously with vertical threading insert holders, the inserts broke frequently. I use standard thread cutting oil applied with an oil can, and only about half makes it onto the thread.

With an electronic stop system with a VFD, it can turn the motor off at a designated position and then apply quick braking. When using a VFD for threading, I recommend turning down the Hz to the 20-30 range as this will result in quicker braking then a higher Hz range. The repeatability of an electronic sensor system varies based on many factors such as the sense range, refresh rate, and repeatability characteristics of the sensor. There are also mechanical slop in the gear train and feed system, the threading speed and pitch or feed rate. I typically thread steel in the 250-450 RPM range depending on the diameter, aluminum and softer materials up to 600 RPM with the carbide lay down inserts. The limiting factor as to RPM is more about the sense/trigger range of the sensor, the rate of travel (velocity) of the carriage and the braking rate speed. There is a point where the carriage travel will exceed the travel distance once the system is triggered. This is also a significant problem when using a mechanical switch, as they will be damaged in an over travel scenario.

In the attached video I am using 1/2" O1 steel threading at ~400 RPM, the thread length is 1.4" with a pitch of 20 TPI. I only use the cross slide to advance the thread cutter, and leave the half-nut engaged throughout the threading process, so the threading dial is not used and it doesn't matter if it is an imperial or metric thread. I use the threading insert to cut the relief grove which is usually the target thread depth +0.005". The nice feature of the ERL-1340 and also the larger 1440TL (RML, TRL lathes) is the universal gearboxes, so no change gears are required unless one is doing a DP/MOD type thread.

 
Thanks for posting :encourage:
 
I'm sure I would switch to bypass and turn in on in the forward direction!
Does your proximity sensor require you to use the cross slide? Wouldn't you get a nice finish with the compound?
Robert
 
Show off... ;) :D

I use my proximity stop (that you made for me) for all my threading. Especially ID threading compensators! Threading into a blind hole still gives me pause, but the proximity stop does help with the nerves.
 
Thanks for that Mark! It makes me realize I'm cutting my threads just like you do and that says a lot! I've been taking .015" cuts for three passes and then .010-.005" and then .001-.002" and trial fitting my threads after each.
 
The proximity bypass system has an additional safety mechanical limit switch which disables the system if you go the wrong direction. SInce the acceleration is 5 seconds it has time to shut the system down, it is also a redundancy should the proximity sensor fail (which doesn't happen according to people that use them). Finish is a function of rigidity, and since you are taking a spring pass at speed it gives close to a mirror finish. Main reason for using the compound is for less rigid machines, but this also changes the stopping point of the cutter requiring a wider relief grove. CNC machines using various thread cutting algorithms but the compound at 29.5 degrees is usually limited to smaller lathes. I started out with the method, but the cross slide is far easier to use for both maintaining the same end position and depth of cut.
 

Attachments

  • Threading Tool Speeds & Feeds.pdf
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Thank you for explaining!
R
 
Mark, thanks for posting this. I also use the proximity stop for threading all the time. I learned early on that it's REALLY important to first make a relief cut where the carriage stops with the proximity stop, and to make that relief slightly deeper than the thread small diameter. If you forget to do that, and thread to a dead stop without a relief, the carbide insert will most likely fracture. Been there, done that as they say.

Your new lathe looks terrific. Are those Prada or Gucci gloves you're wearing? :)
 
Thanks for posting this.

I'd like to have YouTube save the video to my Watch Later or one of my playlists for future reference, but it says:
"This action is turned off for content made for kids."

Bummer, can you disable the kid safe locks ? Not like you made it X-rated or something ...

TIA,
Rick
 
Thanks for posting this.

I'd like to have YouTube save the video to my Watch Later or one of my playlists for future reference, but it says:
"This action is turned off for content made for kids."

Bummer, can you disable the kid safe locks ? Not like you made it X-rated or something ...

TIA,
Rick
Are you sure the kid restriction isn’t at your end?
 
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