Enco 111-2079 no start

[Griff_Lane]

The lathe I rescued has a motor which I verified will turn on when power is applied directly and not through the buttons on front. However, when using the Power Start button, all i get is a click as KM1 black button depresses and nothing else. There is no cover or indicator light on the power button, I don't know if that matters. I am trying to hook this up using 110 VAC cuz that's all I have at the moment. Current guess is that the other contactors have something wrong, or possibly the transformer. But it's also likely there's just wires mixed up from others trying to get this to work. @markba633csi what suggestions do you have to start with for troubleshooting? I am a little confused on how to redo the wire from motor to control box, and I did try switching the tap to the 110 marked spot on the transformer.

 

[markba633csi]

Was the transformer set to 220 when you got it? If so then the motor is likely wired for 220 and we'd first have to change it there
220v is best though if the motor is 1HP or more
I've seen enough of these to know the contactors are often shot at this point in time so it might be easier to just wire up a drum switch
Even if only one contactor is bad, finding it can be difficult and the others are often right behind it
Another thing that happens is the apron lever switch falls apart and the early style isn't available
We might get lucky though, the machine isn't real old (late '93)

 

[Griff_Lane]

Was the transformer set to 220 when you got it?

Yes. And wiring like the attached photo

 

[markba633csi]

That's a nice mess LOL
Motor has been replaced- also I see the contactor box terminal strip is broken on the left side
Is there a dataplate on the motor? I need to see that

 

[Griff_Lane]

I tried wiring it as shown in attached photo, for low voltage and taping the 110 labeled spot on the transformer, but nothing changes.

 

[markba633csi]

Did you operate the apron lever? Down should run forward and up reverse, and you should hear the contactors clack.
You should have 4 wires going from the contactor box to the motor
For 110v the motor should be configured like so:
Blu and Org should be tied together, tied to a box wire U1 or similar
White and yellow should be tied together, tied to a box wire V2 or similar
Red and Black should be separated out and each tied to single wires from the box: 5 and 6 or Z1 and Z2 or similar

Gotta run out for a few hours but shall return

 

[matthewsx]

Mark will help get it sorted. But, for the long run get your shop hooked up with 240v and start looking for a reasonably priced 3phase motor.

John

 

[Griff_Lane]

Mark will help get it sorted. But, for the long run get your shop hooked up with 240v and start looking for a reasonably priced 3phase motor.

John

220V is likely a month away, and this is only 1.5HP hoping to keep it versatile as my friend may want it once I get it running and only has 110 as well.

Did you operate the apron lever? Down should run forward and up reverse, and you should hear the contactors clack.
You should have 4 wires going from the contactor box to the motor
For 110v the motor should be configured like so:
Blu and Org should be tied together, tied to a box wire U1 or similar
White and yellow should be tied together, tied to a box wire V2 or similar
Red and Black should be separated out and each tied to single wires from the box: 5 and 6 or Z1 and Z2 or similar

Gotta run out for a few hours but shall return

I have operated the lever, the switch seems to be working correctly, only allowing the KM1 contacter to engage when it's in neutral. Nothing else is happening though.

 

[markba633csi]

With apron lever in neutral once KM1 is engaged by pushing power start it should stay engaged and KM2 or KM3 should pull with the apron lever moved up or down.
You have a multimeter? Sounds like there is a problem with the apron switch. We will need to see if it's a barrel switch or a pair of microswitches (hopefully the latter)
Try the jog button and see if it pulls either KM2 or KM3 (some lathes use KM2 for forward, some use KM3)

 

[Griff_Lane]

Yes, I have a multimeter. Nothing fancy but it works, let me know what I should be checking.