Emco-Compact 8 lead screw question

Any chance that someone flipped over the leadscrew, and is using the length normally on the banjo side IOT attach the handle? The shaft on my lathe appears to protrude only about 1-1/4 inch right of the headstock.

Looks like the boss on the left hand screw support has been milled away so you may need to find one of those, unless you can press in a new sleeve to support the banjo.

TomKro
 
Tom, I thought of that also, but there is about 10" of "non-lead screw" , just bare shaft to the left, so if I flipped it it would lack the final travel....I think? Can you confirm yours if it's the same way? Further investigation on that subject for sure! I could write off the handle on the end and move the shaft down "X" amount so it protrudes enough for the drive gear maybe. Working on the quick change tool post and tool holders now, Plus got the drive pulley in the 5 axis as I write this cutting the 80 teeth! :eagerness:
 
I wasn't thinking about the unthreaded section. That's pretty important.

On my Emco there's about 8-5/8 inch of exposed unthreaded shaft (with the left side shaft support in place), so maybe yours was relocated right a bit?

TomKro
 
That may very well be, as the shaft end looks to have a undisturbed finish on it. Wouldn't that be an easy fix! I'll have to take it apart an see if there isn't any sign of some alterations going on there. Thanks for looking Tom:<)

Edit......I just checked a little closer and I show 9.125 between the inside of the block and the beginning of the thread, I'll bet that's it!!
 
Here's some pics, FYI.

C8Leadscrew_BanjoEnd_cropped_small.jpgC8Leadscrew_TailstockEnd_cropped_small.jpg

Just so you know, the overall shaft length is about 32-1/2 inches. The left hand screw support is NOT in it's normal position, I was simply checking to see if there were any shoulders or other features in that area.

The banjo end with the breakaway sleeve is tapped on the end. The spare sleeve shown in the pic is from Grizzly. It doesn't come with a shear pin hole and the keyway appears a little too wide. Diameter appears the same though, so maybe just a file can make it work. The sleeve presently on this shaft is buggered up a bit, will probably come off in pieces.

Hopefully your tailstock end is in a little better shape than this one. Looks like some chips got into one side of the bearing surface. Holds more oil this way(?).

TomKro
 
Well, I just checked my overall length and it is 32 .125" , something odd here, where is that 2" stub that yours have hiding at??? I need to take it apart to further investigate.
 
Since you're trying to duplicate the OEM setup, here's a few more pertinent dimensions:

The boss on the left side lead screw support is supposed to protrude from the block face about 1/2 inch. The OD of the banjo mount is 0.984 on my machine. Note that there is a flat at the rear of the boss, as that OD would overhang the back of the block just a bit. Also note that the boss appears to be counterbored (only the section protruding) to clear the key on the breakaway sleeve.

For the breakaway sleeve itself, the shaft has a shoulder cut back about 0.685 inch. The internal thread on the end looks to be 1/4-20, but I could not get a screw in there. Maybe someone else with a functioning machine can check what they have? The breakaway sleeve via Grizzly (for the 9x) has an ID of about 0.400 inch, OD (not including the integrated key) of 0.552 inch, and is about 0.615 inch long.

On the other end, the length of the support stud is about 1.425 inch. The threaded end for the lock ring is 5/6 coarse, threaded about 0.320 back from the end. As to diameter, this shaft is a little worn, but the two raised areas on each side of the oiler are about 0.315 OD and about 0.315 long, with a 3/8 gap between.

If you're trying to duplicate the lock ring, mine is 0.550 OD, 0.520 long, with a 5/16 coarse thru tap. The two flats are 0.390 across the flats, set 0.175 deep. The locking setscrew is only 1/4 long.

I double checked the overall shaft length, still 32.5 inch.

Hope it helps.
TomKro
 
GOLD!! Cheers Tom!!! :eagerness: ;) Here are my thoughts for the shaft, about 6" back from the the left block in the dead zone, I would make a M/F slip collar section, overlapping 1.5" or so with flats on the original shaft to have 2 or 3 set screws joining it back together and the new section replicating how the shaft "should be" at the gear drive end. Just thinking out loud, stuff for later:<)
 
That's a good idea. Plenty of room just south of the headstock.

Are you missing the banjo and all the change gear mounts? Some of that hardware might be available via Grizzly, but might be metric. If you need the banjo bar dimensions, let me know.

I'm lucky I haven't lost any hardware on this machine (yet). It was in pieces on a bench when I had both a heat pump and second LP gas furnace/AC unit crap out and had to move everything in my basement for access to the refrigerant lines. Just the other day I was working on the bench for the Compact 8. Been playing around with a little jackscrew mount for fine bed adjustment. Probably overkill on this little thing, but I also have a 1922 South Bend and an Emco Compact 10 waiting to be mounted. Testing the jackscrew setup, mainly for the other machines. So far it's looking pretty decent.
 
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