Dug Up My Old Drill Mill

[hardwarz]

In my parent's basement, I found my old Homier 03989 drill mill. I purchased this in the 90's when I designed aftermarket paintball parts. I would design the parts and have a local machine shop manufacturer them. At some point, I found the Homier traveling tool sale and purchased the drill mill with the idea that I would prototype the parts at home before having the machine shop make them. I never ended up using it.

Since the drill mill has been sitting around, I decided that I should use it. I've been doing some research I realized that this drill mill should be nothing more than an accurate drill press for the pure fact that it has no Z axis fine feed. Other things that need addressed on this machine are:

The drill arbor was found rusty in a box. It is a MT2 with an external collar and a Jacob's #33 (?) at the other end. I cleaned the rust, but there is slight pitting. I'm not sure if this is still usable or if I should just order a new arbor. The arbor also has threading for a M10 x 1.50 mm drawbar. I'm confused about the collar. I'm assuming it's used to push the drill chuck off?

I'm finding it difficult to find MT2 collets with M10 metric drawbar. I can easily find ER20 collet holders with an MT2 taper and an M10 drawbar. There isn't any reason I shouldn't use this to hold end mills, correct?

The drill mill doesn't have a Z axis fine feed. I have a design in mind, but I need a lathe
(See images.)

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[RJSakowski]

It is my understanding that a collar is required when using a Morse taper arbor for milling because side forces encountered during milling will loosen the arbor with sometimes disastrous results. A drawbar would also work.

Bob

 

[hardwarz]

This is the arbor and collar.

 

[hardwarz]

So, apparently, the arbor is NOT a Jacobs #33 or Jacobs #3. It turns out it's a B18. It just so happens that the hardware store had a B18 that it was shipped accidentally. It had been sitting for over a year. I picked it up for $20.00.

 

[David S]

I purchased my MT2 collets from CTC tools\

http://www.ctctools.biz/morse-taper-2-collet-set-7-pcs-metric-c94/

David

 

[WalterC]

Does it look like this one?






I get razzed about the color. But I spent many many years with everything painted gray. I wanted something more light- however it was suppose to be a little darker...

I've done some practice milling with this machine and it is slow but will do a good job if you don't go bigger than 3/8" bits.
You must be careful and very slow with a climbing cut and make sure you have everything tightened very well.

In fact I milled the plate for the tool post for the lathe.

I had to make a drawbar for mine to fit the collets. The original was metric.

I'm waiting for a good mill to show up for a great price- I'm patient.

 

[hardwarz]

That's exactly what I have. I considered switching to 3/8" drawbar, but there's a lot of M10 stuff out there, so I think I'll keep the M10 drawbar. I have two MT2 arbors that are tapped for the M10-1.50mm. I put a B16 & B18 chucks on them.

 

[mattthemuppet2]

that collar is exactly what you think it is for - to force the chuck off the arbor. I can't imagine you'd need to do it that often, but I'm sure you'd appreciate it if you did!

 

[hardwarz]

Today, I reinforced the workbench. The top was 2" x 12" planks. I glued and screwed 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood on top. Now my work bench is 3" thick.



I got the drill mill home and started cleaning it. It's been sitting in my parent's musty basement for over a decade. I was afraid that the table would be covered in rust. I was happy to find out that it wasn't. It's covered in cosmoline. Some of the cosmoline has turned into varnish. It's going to take several days to clean it.

 

[hardwarz]

I looked at the drawbar today too. The drawbar is a M10 x 275 mm. I thought it would be some elaborate piece. Apparently it's just a long bolt. I think I can just put in a 3/8" - 16 threaded rod in there and use permanent Loctite on a nut at the end.